Yes, It IS a big day. It's not such a big day that you spend your entire life savings, and have no future.
Get a DJ, get a cake, get a hall, get a photographer.......forget the doves, forget the ice sculptures, forget the wedding planner, forget the genocidial mimes, forget the big limo, keep it small. Do you really need to invite your great aunt, who you've seen 3 times in your life?
You should NOT be spending like $20,000 on a wedding.
Damn dude, all my friends getting married are spending a minimum of $50k. $15k gets you the venue for the night without anything else included or factored in (food, music, fucking chairs or tables or lights, etc)
We got out cheap at about $25… we had a smaller (100 person) wedding, went budget on the food, had a DJ, cake, etc. (basically just what the OP said), and we were still hand crafting stuff to reduce the cost. Shit is fucking expensive.
A friend of mine donned his nicest clothes and went down to the courthouse with his fiance and a couple of witnesses. I mentioned this to my sister, and she mentioned that in retrospect, she wished she'd done something similar when she got married.
My brother's father-in-law had offered to pay up to $15,000 for his daughter's wedding. He gave them the option of taking it all in cash and then getting a courthouse wedding so they could have a nest egg to grow, or spend it all on the wedding of his fiancée's dreams, or anywhere in between.
She opted to spend it all on the wedding. 😒 My gawd did that piss me off.
I mean...yes and no. A down payment for a single family home in today's market is many orders of magnitude more expensive than $20k. But I agree that weddings are too expensive. Just have a small party and use that money elsewhere.
I'm in agreement except for the wedding planner. Whether they help with the planning from day one or are just the day-of coordinator, a good wedding planner is worth their weight in gold. I'd rather plug an old mp3 player into a portable speaker and skip the DJ before I recommend skipping out on the planner.
Our wedding was under 5k, excluding dress and suit. Immediate family and close friends only, less than 40 people. Major expenses were the photographer, food and booze. We rented a cheap, small place in the countryside, we planned and did everything else ourselves, having a kanban board in the kitchen for a year was fun! My wife even did the cakes herself because she's an amazing amateur pastry chef. No DJ, but I spent months on and off curating a playlist with a good flow and steadily increasing intensity.
It was the perfect wedding. Huge amount of work but 100% worth it.
We had our wedding at our house in the backyard, no DJ, a discounted cake from my wife's work (a bakery), catering from a BBQ place. Still ended up costing just about 2k, after food, flowers, and rented tables and chairs.
Go, and preach this gospel to SE asian families, I beg you.
Getting away with a wedding for under 80k sometimes is considered "cheap" by those standards. And you absolutely must invite your third cousin once removed and your nextdoor neighbor who you hate. You see him every day afterall!
You want a unique picturesque wedding on a budget?
National Parks in the US. If you keep your guest list under 50 people, you can get married anywhere in the park, provided you don't block access, put up decorations, or damage the park, and it's free! If you have more than 50 people, you need a permit, and those are raffled off per day, and almost no one uses them.
I got married on the bluffs overlooking Little Hunter's Beach in Acadia National Park. The drive, food, and lodging for my wedding there cost less than the first payment for the venue of my "local" ceremony in my home city, which we ended up canceling anyway.
Absolutely! Making it memorable and fun does not mean making it expensive. Cut whatever you can't afford, do not take out a loan to cover anything. Then cut anything that isn't meaningful to you and your partner.
A wedding planner is helpful if you don't have a trusted and naturally organized friend who volunteers to handle details for you.
My wife and I spent $350 altogether for the paperwork and an officiant. We eloped beneath a tree in a park with her family present, and afterward I returned my dress shirt to Walmart for a refund. I will never regret how low-class that was.
We bought a house, had the wedding in backyard for $10K, we put it all on credit cards for the sign up bonuses and had a 2 week honeymoon to Europe staying in 5 star hotels and first class flights all for $1,300 in signup fees.
I'm sure JP stands for something reasonable, and that makes sense, but my mind struggles against itself, and all I can imagine is it stands for "Japanese" and also my brain things "Jurassic Park".
So even though I'm 100% confident that this DIDN'T happen, I'm just imagining your wedding, with people sitting down, waiting for the bride to walk the isle......meanwhile, over by the other side of the room are bunch of Japanese cosplayers all recreating scenes from Jurassic Park. Complete with inflatable dinosaurs and .wav files of dinosaur sounds.
All the while your guest list is like "WTF is even happening over there???"
I'm sorry. I don't know what ACTUALLY happened at your wedding, but it would have been a HUGE upgrade if you had dinosaur fights, and Japanese cosplayers.
If you're not a contractor, power tools. Buy the harbor freight version first when you need it. If you end up using it enough to break it, then you get a quality one.
I keep one in my center console, my keychain, and random cheapies mixed in around loose tools, on top of whatever is part of the sets. Periodically we'll still have a hard time finding one when its needed and have to replenish.
Sorry, but this only applies to drills and sanding machines. Maybe a bench grinder also you can cheap out on. Hand tools are fine to cheap out on also.
Any spinning blade, if you cheap out, don't be surprised if you get life-alteringly injured when you "use it enough to break it". I was just helping some friends renovate where they had a dirt cheap miter saw and it was just about the most dangerous experience of my life.
If you are doing any big renovations, at least get makita, Milwaukee, or dewalt. You can get a TON of cheaper stuff second hand. Quality at a lower price. I got a professional older model hilti hammer drill at a tiny fraction of the price.
It really depends anymore...it can be a tough call.
I grew up using only quality tools, because cheap tools were truly shit until perhaps the 90's, at the earliest.
HF tools used to be utter shit, but their "branded" tools are good these days. The wrenches and sockets are as good a Craftsman used to be, and equal to the store brands from Home Depot and Lowes. And overpriced Matco/Snap On can kiss my ass. I have some of their tools, they're nice, but not worth the price.
Their branded cordless tools are good too. One thing they do differently is put the battery controller in the tool, while Milwaukee puts one in the battery. So don't do anything foolish with the battery.
I don't think they're as durable as Milwaukee, the plastic seems harder, so more prone to cracking. And the warranty isn't very long.
But with the massive cost difference, it's a good place to start.
That is something I would disagree with. Especially when it comes to battery powered tools which seems to be everything nowadays.
If you go with one of the big brands you are almost guaranteed to get a spare part later. If you only use your drill once a year, the battery might be dead in a few years if you don't take care of it. Of course your battery might cost the same as a no name drill, but that is still a fair point IMO.
Now that you have a drill maybe you need a saw later. If you went with a big brand they typically have a large range of devices that work with the same batteries. So you can reuse your battery from the drill and also don't need another charger for that single device. This is also not limited to tools only. Maybe you need a light or a battery powered radio for something totally unrelated.
This is very situational. I'm not a contractor, but I spend a significant portion of my time doing hobbies that require power tools. I don't need a drill that will last for an entire day at a jobsite. Ryobi works fine for me. On the other hand, I wish I had never spent $600 on a cheap planer; I knew I'd want a better one eventually,, and sure enough, I found a need to upgrade after a few years. Now I've spent $3600 on planers. I could have just gone with the $3k one and saved myself $600.
If I'm going to use it once, I borrow it. If I'm going to use it every few months, I buy a cheap one. If I'm going to use it every week, then it's worth it to me to buy something I can keep for at least a decade or two.
For jacks I always assume that it can break at any moment. That is why I put the spare tire under the car when I have the car lifted. If the jack breaks, the car will fall on the tire and not on my face.
I forget which brand it was, but I once bought a drill........charged the battery overnight, went to use it......and it died within 3 seconds. Literally 3 seconds. Thing cost like $100 a couple of years ago. Now I got a DeWalt, and it's fine.
From my experience majority of people can't distinguish between 5€ wine and 500€ wine. And even if they do, they say it tastes "a bit better", not worth the 495€ difference. Pick one that tastes good to you and don't be ashamed if it's cheap.
I will disagree with a caveat. Basically yes there is a difference between wines, and it’s not BS.
There is a world of a difference between a $5 and a $500 wine. But there isn’t a world of a difference between a $5 and a $30 wine, nor is there a world of difference between a $500 and a $1000. It’s about a class structure of the product as with so many things. There’s cheap and simple and there’s more sophisticated and expensive. But once you’re comparing within the same class, it’s really just a matter of varying subtleties. There’s certain distinctions that are absolutely distinguishable such as dry, sweet etc. and there are undertones. This stuff is absolutely real so if someone says it’s all nonsense that someone has not really had the experience needed to make that kind of judgment.
I drink between $5 and $500 bottles, and while I will agree there is a distinct difference at the higher end, it doesn’t mean the $500 bottle will be better than a $20 bottle to the person drinking it. I humor the people that care about the price, but distinct notes of so-so music doesn’t spin my wheels.
I'm not much of wine drinker myself, but I once did a chef menu with the wine pairing. Every two dishes, they'd bring out a new glass of wine. It was kind blowing how the would taste one way with the first dish and a completely different way with the second dish. I'm not sure I can tell the difference between a $12 bottle and $40 bottle, but in that one meal i understood two things: first, if you know what your doing, wine and food pairings can be magical and, second, I don't know what I'm doing.
There have been so many studies showing that everyone from average joes to top-tier judges can't tell the difference between cheap and expensive wines.
It's actually not really that hard, any cook worth their salt can make a good shot at reverse-engineering a sauce from tasting it. It just takes a lot of practice at tasting things.
Depending on the country, and where you shop. You should spend more if you can tell the difference, but not more than that.
On the expensive end you are paying for the famous canteen+region, and if you go to a wine shop you could find something from a less known vineyard that is as good for less.
There are so many great tasting cheap wines! My favorite is about $16-18 or so but I'm perfectly happy with $4-8 wine too. I will agree though that there are some extremely interesting and complex flavors to be found in the high end stuff that I find very compelling, and can understand the appeal of, but I ain't paying for it.
Nintendo's stuff is free on day 1, or a few years after release if it's their Wii U stuff. I think the first Wii took a year before the Twilight Hack happened.
I buy the giant blocks of 100 generic melamine sponges from Amazon.
However, having a couple of the Mr clean versions around is prudent. They are slightly different. They deform more easily and disintegrate faster but they get deeper into crevices. It's super rare that I find something that generic ones won't do a great job on but it's good to have a couple of the name brand ones for that time when they don't cut it.
Over the counter medications. Store brand ibuprofen, allergy meds, cold medicine, etc. Sometimes as much as 1/7th the price, just make sure the active ingredients match amounts and you're set.
Most of the time, yes. Though certain cough medicines have been apparently using benzene in them, which is insane. (Cheaper to produce)
You can look for carbomers in the inactive ingredients list, but they don't have to put that info in if they don't want, which is insane to me. We need regulations that ban carcinogens like benzene being used for the manufacturing of drugs.
The problem with store brand medications is they often will have the same active ingredient, but then will have a cheaper or less-effective catalyst used. This generally causes them to be less effective. At least this is what I was taught years ago. I've definitely noticed a difference in cold/sinus meds. Generic does not compare to brand name Sudafed.
Decongestants are a weird one. Pseudoephedrine is available but is behind the pharmacy counter where most people don't realize they can get it. Pretty much every other nasal decongestant has been replaced by phenylephrine which is extremely ineffective. Both the generic cold/sinus meds and sudafed PE will be most likely be phenylephrine, and you might as well not waste your money at that point. Actual pseudoephedrine (sudafed or a generic if they make it) will help.
Reminder, I am not a doctor, pharmacist, or healthcare worker. I'm just a rando on the internet who has heard a lot about this.
God's perfect killing machine is the pinnacle of cat "breeds". It's heartbreaking seeing people do to cats what we've done to dogs with selective breeding for purely cosmetic traits.
I've been sharpening my knives for a year or so now, but last week i bought this piece of plastic with the angles for different knives on them and it leveled up my sharpening game significantly
Disagree. My favourite paring knife came from a discount bin at a dollar store in a pack of five. You can find decent knives at a dump if to you look hard enough, depending on your definition of cheap.
In my experience the vast majority of cheap knives can't hold an edge at all. The super budget stainless used is just too soft. At the same time I can find many in the $70-100 range that do considerably better in that regard - I sharpen them 3-4 times less frequently.
I prefer to spend a little more on the 1-2 that get the most use.
I think you should get expensive knives as a convenience, or you are pushing the limits of the steel. I cook a lot, and do lots and lots of chopping to cook food for the family. There have been times I've fine diced 10lbs of onions in one go, on top of cabbage, tomatoes, peppers etc.
With that much chopping, anything that can't shave like a razor is dull. That's why I use a really nice knife, thinned, sharpened and tuned it to my preferences.
TLDR most people are fine to use any generic knife (if you lack self respect) but if those aren't cutting it for you, get something better. No pun intended
I work in a restaurant and 10 lbs of onions lasts 36 hours. We buy the shittiest chef knife Ed Don has to offer and it's fine. I like nice knives on a hobby level, but they're not necessary on a personal or professional level.
Cell phones and plans. Any phone is good enough for regular use these days. And any carrier uses the towers of all the other carriers, it's not like the old days where there was CDMA vs GSM.
The most expensive and cheapest phones are not worth it. Anything in between is good enough. For me at least prepaid phone plans are better than contract plans.
There is at least ONE exception in the US: Firstnet. They primarily use AT&T's towers, but they have some additional resources that other carriers don't have - they have additional towers and entire network bands that other carriers don't have access to. This allows us to still have coverage in natural disasters or network congestion times. In addition, if there's a natural disaster that knocks out coverage, they have satellite-based trucks that stage DURING the disaster, then come online as soon as it's over.
A few years ago, I had to ride out hurricane Ida in New Orleans (long story). The western eyewall passed directly over the house we were in, and the primary trunk lines coming into the city got destroyed by a cable tower that collapsed into the Mississippi. The next morning I had cell phone coverage when none of the other carriers had come back online yet. We didn't even have power, but my phone worked perfectly.
You have to be a first responder to join - you have to be added by your department's communications coordinator.
if with cell phones you mean the non-smart, dumb phones then I can agree. however if you buy the cheapest of smartphones, what you'll get is even more datamining than usual, which you may be even unable go remove because it's bootloader cannot be unlocked.
but I would say don't cheap out on tech generally, because you'll get extremely weak security and nonexistent respect towards you as a customer.
smartphones is a dirty business. don't support the bad actors with your many, and then long term with your data
Nah, cheap phones often have their bootloader unlocked/unlockable. Really happy with my POCO M5 running modified AOSP. Also, unlike every expensive phone nowadays, it has 3.5mm jack, SD card slot, and exceptional battery life for hiking/trekking (it survives 5-6 days as just a camera+map phone with all power saving on, in comparison people with flagships typically only last 2-3 days with the same usage and power-saving techniques).
I mean beside the fairphone and pixel with calyxos and graphenos or the librem 5 (and THATs a niche user that'll like that one) the rest all seem equally malicious towords us users.
The first round of tools for any hobby or DIY project.
If you don't know what you want from a screwdriver, snips, circular saw etc. then there is no point in buying the super primo bells & whistles expensive stuff.
Once you've used a tool and learned what you don't like about it, or what you actually use it for, or how often you actually use it... Then you can make the informed decision to just buy another cheap one, or splash out on something that's actually fun to use.
Buy the 2nd last tool you will ever need.
There are rare occasions where "buy once cry once" apply. But it's rare
My attitude has become to buy high-end tools because even if I don't use them again, I got the best possible experience when I did to decide whether it was worth it, and chances are I can resell it (keeping the box and all accessories) for barely enough discount to have rented some piece of shit that I couldn't choose to keep if I wanted to.
And bad tools make bad products. A tablesaw that can't cut a straight line and starts to wobble after 10 uses doesn't make you want to keep doing that. When I've replaced a bad tool with a good one, I like the feeling I get when it just works properly.
I've bought enough cheap-shit tools over the years to change my attitude entirely on this. I've gotten lucky sometimes, but usually you pay for what you get.
Power tools are sometimes the exception to the rule of buying cheap tools. Saws are probably the biggest exception. My cheap corded ryobi saw is awful because it's so flimsy, and the deck bends. The makita saw I replaced it with is 100x easier to use, more accurate, and safer.
Buying cheap tools applies to hand tools, air tools, hydraulic stuff, etc.
I call it the Harbor Freight rule - If I need to buy a tool for the first time, I buy the cheapass Harbor Freight version. If I then use the cheapass version enough to kill it (or make me wish I was dead instead), then I spring for the expensive version.
Same for me. It was easy for him to spot which gifts were from him when bringing them to our house and putting them together with the other gifts too, so that was another win in his book :)
I just use brown kraft paper and some basic ribbon in a color appropriate for the occasion. I think maybe $15 in materials has given me a solid decade of gift wrapping and I haven't even gone through half of it yet. Costs basically nothing on a per gift basis, and I get way more compliments on my wrap jobs than I did before I switched to using brown paper.
Ironically, it didn't break, but when I was on the road and needed a power drill to fix something, I didn't feel bad about dropping $500 on a new Milwaukee from Ace hardware.
I wouldn't even call Ryobi the cheap one, they are good quality and cost more than many others. Harbor Freight is what I'd call cheap - my rule of thumb is that very simple hand tools from HF are OK but anything complex is probably not
We needed a router for one job. My boss got a router from Harbor Freight. Burned through the brushes halfway through (same day). Swapped brushes. Finished the job.
His alternate plan (if we burned through the second set): return it as dysfunctional. As it would be same day, replacement would be natural.
I think he ended up taking it back for a refund after the job was done.
But don't cheap out on drill bits, nor should you try and use the same drill bit for like a decade without sharpening it.
Think of drill bits like a good, sharp knife. Knives cut far better and far easier when they sharp, exactly the same with drill bits. If you trying to cut something you would normally pick the right type of knife to do the job, exactly the same with drill bits.
If you driving screws or other fasteners with your drill consider better quality driver bits if you have a lot of them to drive, such as building a deck. Good quality driver bits cam out far far less and will take more torque so be faster/go in better. Using cheap driver bits is probably worse than using cheap drill bits.
Clothes and housewares. Buying secondhand is vastly cheaper, better for the environment, and can get you surprisingly high quality sometimes.
Over the counter medications. If the active ingredient is the same, delivered in the same way and in the same dosage, the effects will be the same.
Games. There's no good reason to not wait for a price drop and/or sale unless it's some multiplayer thing and you want to play with friends. In the modern day, you'll even usually get an improved product after more time has passed for patches and updates.
I agree with all of those. Some of my favorite clothing I've gotten thrifting. I've been able to find never worn brand name clothing for way cheaper. Heck. I recently got a pair of Eddie Bauer shorts, never used (still had the baggie with spare buttons attached to the waistband), for $5.
Second thrift stores, especially for any small appliance that a couple might get 2 of from their wedding. You can often find a brand new crockpot or juicer or coffee maker. 👍
I love second hand shopping for everything, even smartphones and laptops. Just yesterday I bought several pairs of shoes for the kids, some nice sweaters, toys and two wine glasses second hand and I paid 18€ in total, no lie.
Society was brainwashed into buying new shit, while drowning in second hand shit that just looks slightly different. Insanity!
(i) Peaches. Any firm yellow variety of the species Prunus persica L., excluding nectarine varieties, which are pitted, peeled, and diced, not less than 30 percent and not more than 50 percent.
(ii) Pears. Any variety, of the species Pyrus communis L. or Pyrus sinensis L., which are peeled, cored, and diced, not less than 25 percent and not more than 45 percent.
(iii) Pineapples. Any variety, of the species Ananas comosus L., which are peeled, cored, and cut into sectors or into dice, not less than 6 percent and not more than 16 percent.
(iv) Grapes. Any seedless variety, of the species Vitis vinifera L., or Vitis labrusca L., not less than 6 percent and not more than 20 percent.
(v) Cherries. Approximate halves or whole pitted cherries of the species Prunus cerasus L., not less than 2 percent and not more than 6 percent, of the following types:
(a ) Cherries of any light, sweet variety;
(b ) Cherries artificially colored red; or
(c ) Cherries artificially colored red and flavored, natural or artificial.
Provided, That each 127.5 grams (4 1/2 ounces avoirdupois) of the finished canned fruit cocktail and each fraction thereof greater than 56.7 grams (2 ounces avoirdupois) contain not less than 2 sectors or 3 dice of pineapple and not less than 1 approximate half of the optional cherry ingredient.
(3) Packing media. (i) The optional packing media referred to in paragraph (a)(1) of this section, as defined in § 145.3 are:
I remember the expensive ones, Pampers, being way worse, the pee is so absorbed the kid doesn't feel it but is still in it and get irritated skin, and poo leaked way more easily.
Yeah, that's the only real difference I've noticed: The fit. On my oldest kid, libro fit best. The rest were offbrand. I think it's mostly down to each individual kid and not so much the brand.
Ditto. They also smelled worse too. We found that the Target brand diapers when Target has their gift card deals was the time to stock up on their whipes and diapers.
Shit, I never thought that might be why, but we've dealt with a lot of skin irritation, and our kid prefers keeping a dirty diaper over getting changed. My day is ruined.
We tried cheap ones, but our kids get irritated skin from them. Pampers works for us. That being said, I'd go for the cheapest brand that works for the little ones.
Generally, medications. It's pretty rare you have some sort of specific metabolic issue which calls for the branded version; the generic is usually just as good. I have a note in my medical records to NOT give me the branded version of my meds because there's something in the expensive ones that gives me horrific reflux, while the others don't.
Most people are being very specific, but I'd say consumables in general. Rarely is a name brand food or medicine any different than generic. Often they're literally produced in the same factory. Stuff that's meant to last, generally a more expensive product will be made more durable (not always), but this isn't a consideration with consumables. If it's a one-time use or edible, I'm going with the cheapest option 99% of the time.
It's funny how people won't cheap out on something like a mattress or clothing but consistently buy the cheapest food possible which is going into their bodies.
I agree with eating healthy, but if you're buying cheese-it's, as an example, the generic brand is equally bad for you as the name brand. You should still try to make healthy choices, but name brand doesn't make anything healthy.
I agree except for condiments. They're cheap enough already compared to how long they last that I think it's worth springing for the good stuff. Duke's Mayo, Grey Poupon mustard, Cholula hot sauce, Ken's Steakhouse salad dressings, etc. If a bottle lasts you six months, what difference does a few dollars make?
For staples like flour, bread, canned products, OTC meds, who cares. I'll go as cheap as possible.
My friend once wrote a letter to them about how bad their blue cheese dressing is. In return they gave him a voucher for a lifetime supply of it. That shit is disgusting, IMO.
My default is to buy the grocery store's house brand unless I can tell the difference.
A 26 ounce can of Morton's iodized salt at my local grocery store costs $2.19. The Food Lion brand costs $0.79. Explain to me why I would pay more than twice the price for name brand salt?
Especially in goods where I know the complete chemical formula of the product like salt and sugar, until I encounter a serious problem with quality or unethical sourcing I'm not going to pay for the brand name.
The cheapest I can get Claritin in my nearest supermarket is 50¢—$1.12/pill.
The store brand can be as low as 7¢—37¢/pill.)
The CostCo version is 2 or 3¢/pill.
All of them are the same. 10mg of loratadine, highly regulated by the FDA.
They can differ with inactive ingredients, so maybe you'd like a syrup or something from a name brand. But it legally has to be the same active ingredients, in the same amounts, in the same forms.
For salt, you can just get a 50lb bag of de-icing salt for $8, and be set for life.
Jokes, but there is a bit of a difference in crystal shape which matters. A teaspoon of fine salt can be almost twice as much by weight as coarse salt, and flaky salt is different again. But I just use kilo bags of cooking salt (medium coarseness) in cooking, and delicate flaky salt for finishing and for things that dont get cooked, like salad, icecream and raw fish.
Tbh about everything. Most of retail is just an industrial scale of the addage "a fool and his money will soon be parted".
Buy second hand, its fine. You probally can figure it out yourself, try to diy. Look at what people are actually doing not the brand of tool they are doing it with. Its a saw, you saw with it, you can get away with sawing a lot of stuff with the same cheap saw.
Soaps are just collections of chemicals, powerwash for example is just dish soap plus water and isopropal alcohol.
You can probably cook it at home. It will probably be better and better for you, because a pound of lard or cup or sugar looks like the red flag it is when you go to cook with it.
Your bed might be better on the floor, then on a frame.
You are probably better off walking or biking then driving.
You probably don't need to watch more shows anyways so why get fleeced to subscriptions.
You probably don't need to play games as much so you can pass on that game. You probally don't need to go out for a drink. You probally don't need to go out for a meal. Etc etc
Honestly, I'm a hypocritical ass saying some of this, but its true. The urge to go spend spend spend, isn't a fluke its just successful sociol engineering to separate us fools from our money.