Here’s How Much Cleaner Energy Could Save America, in Lives and Money | Widespread adoption of heat pumps could prevent thousands of premature deaths and save billions on energy bills
The big problem is that those billions of dollars in savings would cost billions of dollars in profits for energy companies. As long as Citizens United remains in place, we are unlikely to see any legislation to encourage people to switch.
We ripped out our last gas appliances this fall, a gas furnace and gas fireplace log set. We now heat with a Cold Climate rated heat pump, and put in an electric log set. We actually use the fireplace much more now than we did with gas.
We're very happy with being a fossil fuel free house now.
My wife and I have been eyeing building a house in the coming years since houses in our area are generally overpriced pieces of shit. I'm an electrician by trade and have a lot of friends in complimentary construction fields, so we'll ultimately be better off building instead of buying and renovating, especially if we space the build out over a few years.
My plan is radiant floors with an electric boiler, heat pumps in every room, electric instahots at every sink/shower location, with an insanely tight building envelope and a massive solar array. Plus, we save $25k out of the gate going without a natural gas connection. I'd probably still pipe in gas lines just in case.
Genuine question; how do you prevent freezing pipes in cold climates with instahot taps? AFAIK There's only so much insulation can do about that (although what i know is pretty little when it comes to plumbing/insulation)
If your pipes inside the house are freezing, then that means the temperature inside the house is below freezing. That means the house heat is off, in which case you have larger problems.
If the house heat is going to be off for an extended time, you should be shutting off the house water supply and opening your tabs to prevent freezing. That's the same no matter where your water heating happens.
Pretty much what the other guy said. In climates where temps get below freezing, you have to keep your thermostat at 45°F minimum (though most do 55), and pipes are generally run above the insulation in the floor joist. Pipes are run in such a way that they are sloped down towards the stop and waste valve (basically a valve below the frost line that cuts off the water supply into the house and also drains the water inside the pipes when shut off once you open all the faucets). Even lines out of a central water heater need to be considered since unless a circ pump is installed and always running, they'll freeze the same as cold pipes.
My plan is radiant floors with an electric boiler, heat pumps in every room with an insanely tight building envelope... Plus, we save $25k out of the gate going without a natural gas connection.
The electric boiler is really attractive especially with the option of using A3 refrigerants. We bought an existing house which already had conventional HVAC ducting and very few A2L heat pumps were available this fall for purchase so we had to buy one of the last R-410a units.
, electric instahots at every sink/shower location,
I looked at that route but the energy efficiency is lower compared to other electric only options. Also the maintenance of descaling multiple times a year wasn't appealing. We went with a tank-based heat pump water heater to replace the existing electric tank water heater. The energy efficiency has been amazing, and the side benefits of extra cooling and de-humidification in the basement where the unit is was nice.
and a massive solar array.
We put in a 17kW array with 10kWh of battery and its been wonderful so far. We haven't had an electric bill since a month after installation, with this month being the first since then. If your state/locality has true 1:1 Net Metering, the cost of batteries isn't worth it from a ROI perspective, but we were interested in not only that, but the backup capabilities in the even of an outage.
Good to know about the refrigerant, I haven't even begun to consider different types of systems.
I didn't think about the descaling, that's definitely something to consider. My prime consideration with them was a) save on the extra piping, b) not have to wait for hot water to arrive, wasting water in the process (mountains, it gets a bit nippy up here), c) not have to operate a circ pump. I wouldn't necessarily mind an electric tank WH, I just thought it'd be nifty having instant hot water in each room and not worrying about the tank running empty.
And yeah since we're building from scratch, I intend on designing the roof with to accommodate as many panels as necessary (I haven't even begun to do the load calcs for anything yet. In a perfect world, I'd want the front of the house facing north, leaving the entire south side of the house available for solar without cluttering up the curb appeal. Since we don't have net metering where I'm at, I also have my eye on a battery system primarily for night operation and outages (they're frequent up here), and as essentially a whole house UPS.
Unless a rebate of some kind happens, you will not get the needed uptick in replacing oil furnaces. I just had this exact conversation this past weekend with my parents. Their house is built back in the 1950s and has an oil furnace. They had replaced it about 8 years ago and refused to get a heat pump due to their current system still being under warranty. Unless it is a free swap, they will never replace it unless the unit dies and is non-repairable.
In all fairness, heat pumps are stupid easy to install, and many of them come as a pre charged kit that you can do yourself. I understand not everyone wants to drill a home in the side of their house, but anyone that is handy can do one themselves in a day.
When we built our home a few years ago, we made sure that everything in the house was electric: no gas water heater, no gas stove, and no gas central heating. Our heat pump works phenomenally well, our electricity bills are very manageable, and we don't have a gas bill, at all. It's great, I highly recommend it.
The only gas appliance left in my house is the stove, but I don’t want to replace it because I hate resistive electric stoves and don’t trust induction ones.
If I could test drive the stove before dropping a couple grand on it that would be great, but I haven’t found a way to do that.
I dipped my toes into induction with a single burner that plugs into the wall. Just be sure to get a large enough one, just assume that the circle they draw on the plate lies by about 2 inches (i.e. the heating element is smaller than the lie they print on the box). I will never go back, thermostat-controlled induction is by far the most superior way to cook. Just set the target temp and you never have to fiddle with knobs no matter how many ingredients you add/remove while cooking.
You must have gotten a better hot plate than I did. Mine doesn’t maintain temperature and burns things consistently due to very slow pulse width modulation.