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InitialsDiceBear„Initials” ( by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (
Posts 6
Comments 438
Why advocate for IRV?
  • There's a large amount of people who have had FPTP long enough that they immediately think any system more complex than "guy with most votes wins" is inherently rigged somehow. I also hate to say it, but one of the most important voting blocs is people who are old enough that they are not necessarily cognitively all there. I was an election judge (I'm not sure if that's a common term everywhere, but it's what we call the people at the polling location who hand out ballots and bring them to be counted), and so many people would come in with fliers they got in the mail that tell them who to vote for. The fliers were literally designed to look like ballots including the little circles filled in. They'd hand me the flier saying it was their vote, and I'd have to correct them that it was an advertisement, and that they had to fill out a ballot for themselves. They frequently had trouble doing that.

    The existing political parties (in America, at least) also have no reason to advocate for anything else because it would erode their power. The center-right Democratic party knows they would be pushed left, which they (and their funders) don't want, and the far-right republican party would be pushed towards the center, which they (and their funders) don't want.

    I just looked up STV, and I'm not sure my quick wikipedia read gave me a complete understanding (or how it works in Australia specifically), but it seems like you must have multiple senators per district? In America, representatives and senators are both exclusive to their district. Without a pretty fundamental change to how that works, something like STV couldn't be implemented. We do have multiple positions to fill sometimes in local elections like town councils or certain types of judges. In those circumstances, there might be a list of 8 candidates, and it will say "pick up to 3" or something like that.

    I think the reason that IRV is popular to promote in America is that it's still a large improvement, and it's not too difficult to explain.

  • Trump’s VP pick is a naked authoritarian
  • Many states have multiple universities named after them, so you can have university of Pennsylvania and Pennsylvania state university.

    Ohio state used to be " the ohio mechanical and agricultural school" when they were founded. They changed their name to "the Ohio state university" when they became a university. They were competing with "Ohio university" to be the main big state school, so the tried to emphasize it with "the" prounced with the long e (thee). It's become a bit of a meme since then. No one really cares but it's a funny thing for them to embrace and everyone else to make fun of.

  • Awnings: a simple cooling tech we apparently forgot about
  • I haven't watched the video yet, but vernacular architecture back in the day commonly set shading elements like awnings at the right height/angle such that during midday in the winter, sunlight would still directly go through windows and hit interior floors and walls. During summer, the angle of the sun would be high enough that direct sunlight could not reach windows.

    You can get pretty far with just those passive designs. There are tools to help you find the dimensions you'd need based on where you live without having to do any calculations yourself.

  • Found this fat fellow having himself a nice nibble
  • I don't know. I suspect that since it is a specific predator that has co-evolved with tomato hornworms, they would completely overlap ranges. Looking at the map of observations people have put on iNaturalist, though, it does not look like they are in your area, so who knows.

  • Found this fat fellow having himself a nice nibble
  • Always double check that they are still active before killing them. I've found several on my tomatos before that have been essentially paralyzed. If you let them be, you'll see some cocoons of these parasitic wasps show up on their back. They will then go seek and destroy any others in your garden.

  • What are these guys doing?
  • Sounds like solitary bees. They can have the ability to sting, but since they aren't a social bee, there's no real reason to, so it's very rare to get stung by one. Some types burrow in wood, others in dirt. I would just leave them be. Worst case scenario, they make a tiny mess by pulling dirt out of the pot. There's a huge variety of them, so it's hard to say for sure about your bees, but changing the soil will likely destroy their home, but it's not like a full on beehive, so it's easy enough to remake a new hive. Only thing to keep in mind is that they might overwinter in there, so repotting during winter could destroy them.

  • In the US, did Amazon kill the mall, is everyone too broke, or a combination of other factors?
  • We definitely get most of our groceries from standalone grocery stores. For the most part, you drive right to it.

    I just looked at some Sydney shopping centres, and they look much like our malls on the inside (except for groceries), but it seems like they are much more integrated in the neighborhoods. It looks like parking garages are more popular there than the giant lots here.

    I just looked at the dead mall wikipedia page, and it has a picture of the century 3 mall. That's a good example of what they look like here; separate from where people live, and surrounded by big lots. You can actually see the strip malls that replaced it all around it.

  • In the US, did Amazon kill the mall, is everyone too broke, or a combination of other factors?
  • In America, there's like 3 different things you could call a mall. When most people talk about them, it means a giant building with central indoor paths connecting a bunch of businesses. Typically, there would be a handful of "anchor" businesses, like department stores and a movie theater, and then space for a bunch of much smaller businesses in between including restaurants. These malls (at least the ones I've been to) for whatever reason don't typically have grocery stores. I have seen pharmacies and small Dr's offices in them.

    Then there are "strip malls" that are typically a row of businesses on one side or surrounding a big parking lot. Typically grocery stores are in those.

    Lastly, there's "outlet malls", which are often set up like a fake town with parking distributed throughout. They are commonly built on cheap land in the outskirts of towns, and they have mostly clothing. They are typically brand specific stores (e.g., Nike), so they are allegedly cheaper.

    It's that first category that Americans are going to be talking about if they just refer to a "mall", though. The idea to have all your shops in a convenient place has been around forever, and still works great in many traditional business districts. The "shopping mall", though, was somewhat of an artificial movement in the 80's and 90's that was always a bit destined to fail. Like people have said, the internet is partially responsible, but malls were hurting before the internet started really doing damage. In America, you basically have to drive everywhere, and if you are driving everywhere, it's easiest to just drive directly to whatever shop you need. With malls, you have to park far out in a giant lot, and walk a long way to get to whatever business. You could call it lazy, but if you've only got a little bit of time after a day of work to do shopping, are you going to do the option where you get the task done in 30 minutes, or an hour?

  • what is the biggest failure in human history?
  • Poop indirectly on crops. Systems like this or the Aztec chinampa system, basically try to keep nutrients in the loop with fish and other aquatic organisms. Obviously, there's a disease risk if you do it wrong, but that's also true for modern water treatment.

  • Use for excess clean energy at home

    I have a 100 W rigid solar panel including a charge controller that I currently only use for camping to charge batteries (also useful in an emergency at home). It strikes me as a waste that I could be generating more clean energy with equipment that I already have, but I don't have anything in mind to use this energy for.

    Obviously I could try to tie it into my home to run more of my household on solar, or buy more/bigger batteries to charge, but with 100 W of generation, it's probably not worth it without a significantly increased investment.

    I tried searching around online, and I found plenty of discussion for what to do with a whole house that generates excess capacity (mainly sell to the grid), but nothing really on what to do with small scale DC generation.

    Anyone here have thoughts?


    Dealing with plant debris

    Does anyone have a good method for dealing with plant debris? I'm thinking about things like stems from plants, or even just pruned bits. I don't have a place to compost effectively. My normal method for woody debris is to cut it to little pieces with garden shears, and for leafy stuff to just let it dry out and crunch it up. After, I'll just stick it in the bottom of a pot that I'm going to put a new plant in. It gets a little broken down, but not as well as I'd like, and I can only do it when I have a new plant to pot, so I end up with a random pile of stuff that sits around for a while.

    I wish I had like a tiny woodchipper or something.


    Does anyone use a coffee grind sieve to evaluate their grinder performance?

    I've been using my grinder (Baratza maestro plus) for ten years now, and I got it used. I've replaced some parts (e.g., burrs), but I'm wondering if it's finally time to let it go. It seems like it's not grinding as consistently as it once was, but I'm thinking it would be good to quantify it.

    I've seen sieves used to classify ground coffee, specifically, the brand Kruve seems to be a nice implementation. It's $90 for the cheapest version, though, which doesn't quite seem worth it to me. It seems like it'd be better to just spend the money going towards a new grinder, but I figured it would be good to ask for anyone's experience here.


    Woodworking CAD

    Hi everyone,

    I looked through this community, and I didn't see much discussion of the use of CAD for woodworking, so I figured it was worth a post. I learned CAD ages ago, and I've used it sparingly in my professional life since then. I'm working on a project now that would benefit from CAD, so I figured I'd try to get up and running with a software for personal use.

    I know sketchup and fusion360 have long been the major players for woodworkers, but I am wary of "free" personal use licenses that can be removed or degraded at any time. As this is Lemmy, I'm sure plenty of you are interested in FOSS options as well. I know there are some programs out there specifically for woodworking, but if I'm going to learn a new software, I want it to be more general purpose so I can use it to make things for 3D printing, etc, if needed. I also want something parametric to be able to easily change designs. For those of you unaware of what that means, it basically means that you can design things with variables instead of exact numbers. That way you can punch in numbers later on to easily update your design. In my case, I'm making cabinet doors in a few different sizes, and I'll be able to generate plans for different doors with only 1 model. Theoretically, I could upload the design for anyone else to use/modify as well on a place like thingiverse (someone give me a shout if they are secretly horrible or something, I'm generally wary of providing value to a corporation for free).

    This all drove me to FreeCAD. FreeCAD is a FOSS CAD software that has a huge range of different capabilities. The different tools are divided into "workbenches" of different uses such as architectural drafting, 3d printing, openSCAD etc. There are also user created workbenches that you can install. There's even one specifically for woodworking (that I haven't used yet).

    I've started into some tutorials, and most of them are focused on building a single widget. While that's great if you are planning on making something to 3d print, us woodworkers are usually assembling different parts. The tutorials for woodworking specifically I've followed along with so far seem to follow the same workflow:

    First, a spreadsheet is set up to establish all the parameters you want to be able to change, then, each part is designed individually. Finally, all of the pieces are brought together and assembled.

    While this is great if you already have a design in mind or an object, and you are trying to make a model of it, it's not the way I would ideally go about conceptualizing a new design. To make a nightstand, for example, my preferred methodology would be to assemble some simple rectangular panels to represent the top, bottom, back, front, left, and right. After those are in place, I'd start adding joinery, details like routed edges, and cutting out space for a door. It doesn't seem like freecad is necessarily set up to do things that way, though I could be wrong. This might even be how the woodworking workbench does things, I just figured I'd start learning the default workbenches first.

    Anyone else use freecad or another CAD software? What's your workflow like? Want me to report back once I've had more time to play around with it and learn some stuff?


    Irrigating a balcony garden

    I've had irrigation running on my porch for a few years now, so I figured it was worth making a post about how it works, and the pros and cons of it. I'm by no means an expert.


    • you don't have to worry about plants drying out on a hot weekend while you are out of town.
    • you can grow plants in smaller containers than you'd otherwise be able to
    • you can put plants in spots that would be annoying to water by hand


    • it's a lot of plastic. Typically the tubing is polyethylene or vinyl.
    • you need to drain it in the winter
    • it takes some time to figure out how to get the right amount of water to your plants
    • the system that I have (and most off-the-shelf systems, I think) is not compatible with a rain barrel.
    • you need a hose spigot

    I have a porch with a lot of plants. My roof hangs over the porch, so I don't get any rain on my plants, and they are completely dependent on watering. This would typically work fine all throughout the spring, but then once summer comes, and the plants need more water, I'd inevitably lose some plants while I'm out of town. I can have friends water plants like my indoor plants that maybe need to be watered once a week, but I'm not going to ask someone to water 30 outdoor plants twice a day.

    There are a few different common types of automatic irrigation systems. The most common you've probably seen is little sprinklers. Those are not ideal for containerized plants because you'd waste a lot of water, and get your porch/balcony really wet. Theres also things like soaker hoses which arent useful in our case. The type that I have, and recommend, is drip irrigation. It does exactly what it sounds like and drips water right where you want it.

    There's two types of drip irrigation, and two subcategories of each. Individual emitters or emitter tubing, and each of those are available as simple emitters or pressure compensating. Individual emitters are just single droppers, and tubing is what it sounds like, a tube with a bunch of holes in it at regular intervals. The single droppers come in different sizes for different flow rates, and they are generally more convenient than the emitter tubing unless you have a big planter bed or something where you put a loop of the tubing.

    If you think about a tube with a bunch of holes in it, the most water will come out of the first hole, and each subsequent hole will put out less and less, until eventually, for a long enough tube, nothing would come out. The water that comes out would also be dependent on what your water pressure is. To use that kind of system, you have to be crafty about it, and maybe arange your plants or run the tubing from thirstiest to least thirsty. Pressure compensating emitters somewhat solve this problem by outputting the same amount of water, as long as the water is somewhere between the highest normal household water pressure and a pretty low pressure. I can tell you firsthand that they dont work perfectly, and you'll have some that put out water faster than others, but it's mostly okay. I actually rearranged my plants to just put the more needy ones under the fastest drippers.

    One thing you need to always keep in mind is the pressure of the water. I have no clue what the actual numbers are for my water pressure is, so let's say it's at 10 where it comes out of the house. It then passes through the timer (more on that later), which might nock off 1 unit of pressure. The water then has to travel up a floor of my house to where my plants are. The change in height might nock off another unit, and the resistance of that long stretch of skinny tubing might nock off another. Now it's down to 7. Each emitter might take .5 units. Once we get down to 1 unit of pressure, there isn't enough to push past the mechanism inside of the emitters, so you can't have any plants past that point. If you follow the math, that gives me 12 emitters. Technically, the emitters dont reduce the pressure in the main tube, they reduce the flow, which leads to a corresponding drop in pressure. Obviously, bigger diameter tubing can carry more water and water more plants. This is all why a rain barrel would be hard to use, the pressure will be pretty low unless your barrel is up much higher than your plants. Any debris from the barrel could easily clog the drippers, too.

    I have probably 30 plants on that system, but I was only able to have about 12 with a single line of irrigation tubing, which in the US, at least, is 1/4 inch diameter. I had to run 1/2 inch supply tubing, and I have branches off of that with the 1/4 inch tubing. You might think that tubing with 4 times the cross sectional area could carry 4 times the water, but it's actually way more than that because of math reasons I don't need to get into.

    The emitters come in different sizes, rated in volume per hour. I have basically all one size because I can always put 2 in a bigger pot.

    The last thing to mention is the timer. The cheapest ones just have analog dials for "water for x minutes every y hours or days". Figuring out how much water to give takes some time. To start, I would make sure all of the plants are not sitting in completely dry soil. Dry soil, especially with peat in it like lots of potting mix, does not absorb water well, so water might roll off to the side, and down the edge of the container and out the drain holes. Then I'd run the water till you see it start to drip out of the drain holes a lot indicating that the soil is full. Then I'd back it off from that point by a bit. My emitters are rated for 1/2 gallon per hour, and in the spring, with seedlings and cool weather, I might run them for 5 minutes every day or every other day. When it gets to the summer, I have my timer water twice a day, with 10 mi uses in the morning, and another 5 minutes during the heat of the day. I have a "smart" timer that lets me have slightly more complicated schedules like that. If you are a tech savvy person, you could set up automatic rain delay.

    Lastly, I'm not trying to promote any particular products over others, but this is the kit I started with, and I've expanded from there. It seems like the components are all fairly standardized in size, at least in the US, so you can mix and match from different companies to problem.

    Hope that helps some people, and feel free to ask any questions.

    TL;DR, irrigation is pretty useful and easy to set up.


    [Discussion] What is your Thanksgiving strategy?

    Every Thanksgiving since I was a child, I've had to make something for Thanksgiving. Typically, and I think this goes for many Americans (and presumably Canadians cause they have a similar Thanksgiving), this involves sharing the kitchen with way too many cooks. It can be difficult to know what tools you'll have in an unfamiliar kitchen, and when/if you'll be able to use the stove, oven, etc.

    I'm trying to move things towards a better model, where I make the entire menu, and other people are responsible for drinks and cleanup, but there are always holdouts determined whatever particular dish they feel strongly about.

    My normal approach is:

    • Insist on making the turkey. The turkey is the most common thing people mess up, and it sucks to have to choke down dry turkey.
    • Bring an insane amount of my kitchen with me. Words can't describe how frustrating it is to try to cook with only the world's dullest knives, a thermometer that starts at 160 F for "rare beef", and only a salt shaker of iodized salt.
    • Do as many "make ahead of time" or "make outside of the kitchen" dishes as possible. Sous vide sweet potatoes, salads, etc.

    What are your methods for ensuring that your Thanksgiving meal doesn't suck?

    P.s. My packing list for things to bring to cook at another person's house contains:

    Thermometers, knives, shears, a scale, cutting boards, rimmed baking sheets, cooling racks, a vegetable peeler, a microplane, a pepper grinder, kosher salt, aprons, a big mixing bowl or two, a cake tester, a bread knife, a citrus juicer, a few Mason jars, butcher twine, a gravy separator, all the herbs and spices I'll need, a high wall saute pan, a sturdy frying pan, baking soda, baking powder, yeast, lemons, limes, butter, my sous vide circulator, heavy duty foil, and a liquid measuring cup.

    Anything you think I'm missing?