It could, but I don't think there would be any benefit. The key thing this does is make walls a bit closer to the theoretical perfect solid structure.
Not as drastic as I had hoped, but it looks like around 5% better layer adhesion provided you increase the flow rate slightly to fit in the gaps. It essentially makes a print that's more solid in the walls.
I saw elsewhere someone doing prints with transparent filament and they were also getting optically better prints with this.
Also, there's a pull request on Orca... Not sure when it'll come out, but they're working on building it into the slicer.
Honestly, if I were designing active guitar gear, I might just try to push 24v phantom power and XLR cables. Have a little power box at the amp or pedalboard and ditch the onboard battery entirely.
But I loathe alkaline batteries...
Their big defense seems to be, "We haven't even done anything yet."
Sorry Bambu, but you're late to the enshittification game. Setting up a situation where you CAN do these things is a Chekhov gun: sooner or later, we know you'll put them to use.
There's already a project to retrofit klipper hardware.
https://github.com/ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion/blob/main/README.md
As it turns out, there's already a project... https://github.com/ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion/blob/main/README.md
Just did this yesterday. You won't need the whole afternoon. It was surprisingly simple.
I'm unconcerned. I knew what I was getting into with a walled garden ecosystem, and though I didn't expect them to dive straight into the enshittification deep end, I figures they would eventually do something fairly shady. The real question is how long it will take to release the first X1C-Klipper refit.
Hydroponic Saffron sounds like the name of a jam band of some kind...
I keep meaning to start some saffron crocuses. Good to know they aren't fans of indoor growing.
Politicians are such profoundly unserious people.
Meh, I don't think they're quite foolish enough to go full Juicero, but I won't be updating my firmware.
Let me put it a different way: your premise was that a level of precision with less than 10ms of variance is necessary. I'm saying that much of the library of recorded music demonstrates that this is not the case.
If your premise is simply, "I'd like to be more precise with my timing," then by all means. It sounds like you're already doing the right thing though: lots of practice with a click track. There's not really a shortcut to forcing your synapses to fire with that level of precision, you just have to keep doing it.
There's an old joke about someone in New York asking for directions... "How do you get to the Met?" "Practice"
"10ms is barely acceptable" 🤣 I'm sorry, but that's the funniest thing I've read so far today. Do you realize how little of the music you hear on a daily basis meets that criteria?
🤣 "Everyone uses this thing... it must be possible to monetize that somehow!"
I'd really like to hear their "underpants gnome" business plan for how that's going to work.
Nope, you're missing the point entirely. There's absolutely nothing stopping me from walking into the other room, tearing apart my X1C and rebuilding it with, let's say a klipper board, except that it works quite well at the moment... No printer bought right now is likely to be any different in that respect. You're trying to act like it's an i-phone, but it just isn't.
Ten years... Someone apparently thinks they're funny. I'd like to see their ten year old 3d printer that is still essentially using stock or equivalent components and hasn't been essentially re-engineered from the ground up. Are you enjoying manually leveling that bed with thumbscrews and a scrap of paper? Still printing on tape, or maybe a piece of glass? This whole hobby is still moving relatively quickly and I wouldn't be surprised to wind up working with additional axes or other unpredictable innovations ten years from now. Certainly we'll have gone through multiple "ultimate" build surfaces by then.
It has definitely come a long way from my first attempt with it. It's really usable now and I suspect it will only get better with a larger user base.
Any IP lawyers in the house?
Any thoughts on this. It seems pretty obvious as a development once you get into it and there doesn't seem to be much difference between the new patent and the expired patent. Layer adhesion is the big Achilles heel of 3D printing after all.
Orca filament tuning: which tests do you do and is it worth it for you?
I recently got back into 3d Printing because it finally seemed like it had matured into a usable production method - where one could actually just make parts instead of spending all their time fiddling with the printer. That said, I realize there are still some benefits to some fiddling.
I'm wondering about other's process using the calibration prints in Orca. Do you go beyond maybe a temp tower, flow rate and pressure advance? Do you do those in any particular order? Bambu owners, do you bother on Bambu filament, or do you find their stock settings are pretty close (I haven't been bothering - most of it seems to do pretty well without).
I started thinking about this because I pulled out some OLD filament when I got my X1C, just to see if any of it was still usable. I dried it all thoroughly with a dehydrator, and have been pleasantly surprised. Much of it has been fine. The really old ABS has been fine as was the slightly newer ASA. The 5-year-old Hatchbox PLA was perfect, but a slightly newer generic PLA roll is terrible (it may have been bad when new). Old PETG has been hit and miss. I had all but given up on one roll, only to try tuning it, and suddenly got usable prints for the rest of the roll. Then the next roll clogged the nozzle on the pressure advance tower. I could just toss it all, but it was already paid for several years ago, so anything good that comes out of it is a win.