If they'd never endorsed anyone, I could see it being a matter of ethics, but just randomly deciding to change an established pattern is lame as hell.

Like, if a journalist publication wants up stay neutral, that's great (preferred, imo). But don't try and backtrack over a decade of partisanship without a damn good reason, and there isn't one in this case. That makes it more bullshit from the owner class, which is business as usual.

Thanks :)

EBay, though you can usually find them on Amazon just as cheap, and I've seen them at Staples and office depot before at actual stores.

This is similar to the ones I got

Not specifically endorsing any given seller or anything, just picking one as an example

I'll also down vote anyone using up votes as some kind of metric for their post/comment being inherently right/good

Tbh, I tried out a friend's palma before getting one of their other models. The palma really doesn't improve much compared to a phone. Yeah, the eink screens stress way better for reading, but the size factor matters a lot.

Reading on a device with phone dimensions just isn't as smooth. You need more width to give enough room for your eyes to not be bouncing around as much. I thought that it would be easier with phone dimensions because you should be able to take in an entire line without scanning side to side, but it doesn't work out that way.

That being said, the palma I tried out was pretty damn nice otherwise. A little ghosting, a little lag on scrolling through lists and such, but it fits in the hand nicely, and holds a charge for days of solid reading.

I dunno if the new one has the same situation, but the boox devices I've used are set up where you have to actively make the play store available, and it isn't something that's obvious how to do. That's good or bad, depending on why you're picking a boox over a kobo, kindle, or whatever because it's android.

It's not that the glow fades over years, it's that it doesn't keep going without having more light applied to it.

The kind of GITD that is applicable to keyboards is photoluminescence, specifically phosphorescence.

Basically, light hits the substance and makes the electrons happy. They're so happy they throw a rave, and spin their light sticks while rolling on ecstasy.

Which isn't accurate, but is still true in a way.

The electrons get the energy from light, which causes them to emit light over time. The amount of time they can hold that extra energy is limited. In the kind of materials that could be used for keyboards, you'd be dealing with hours at most. There are materials that can emit light for days, but the amount of light after the first few hours is too low to be useful, and isn't really applicable for this.

You can get GITD stickers for keyboards already. They do work, just not really long enough or bright enough to be something reliable in the way a backlight is.

And, the phosphorescence does reduce over very long time frames (way more than years), so having it printed onto the keys directly isn't worth the extra effort to manufacture, since the printing on keyboards would also be removed over time by use as well as the reduction in GITD properties. At least, I don't think it would be worth it. That's opinion, not something based on anything a company has said about why they don't do it.

Fwiw, one of my keyboards has the stickers on it, and they do okay, but only when the board is in decent light intentionally. Indirect lighting isn't enough to get a steady glow that would last for a long writing session. An hour, maybe two, yeah, but not much longer. So, if that's the use case for them that a person has, where the board will be well lit right up to when it'll be used, and won't be used for the equivalent of a full shift of work, they're great. Otherwise, backlights are vastly superior

And it is!

Well, for my dyslexic ass anyway. For my specific expression of dyslexia anyway.

There's more recent fonts that are really just as good, but it's way easier to find comic sans than those.

I tell ya, this makes me want to get a new camera and start shooting for fun again.

I've never been a pro, and never even did paid work with any regularity. And I'm sure as hell not able to make what I think of photographic art, but it sure as hell was fun. Sold off almost everything years ago though. For whatever reason, phone cameras just don't "feel" right, and the pictures I get aren't what I want them to be.

But this kind of art? It's inspiring.

Yeah, but, you got any more of them granules?

Dammit, I do this irl, now my joke is going to fall flat as all the dozens of lemmy users seeing this steal my thunder.

Go back and check the links.

I see what you did there, and appreciate it :)

Nice! Gotta love noods

You know, I tried a lot of tactics to get the spam calls and texts to stop.

What ended up working so far is telling them that I'm sick of the spam, and that because of it, I'm staying home instead of voting.

Mind you, I'm lying, but they don't need to know that. But it worked, so far. Haven't gotten any in a few days now, and they were coming in multiples each day before that

That's a mawg, thank you very much! Half man, half dog, he's his own best friend

I just checked the apps I use, and sync shows display names properly.

Well, the key to belt sanders causing problems is heat. You've got abrasives scratching metal at high speed.

That's a lot of friction on a very small area. That friction on a bigger piece of metal is no big deal. But a knife edge gets very thin indeed. It simply can't take the heat being generated at the edge and move it into the rest of the knife fast enough to prevent the edge, perhaps a few millimeters worth, from getting too hot.

This results in the heat treatment of the steel being undone. The little crystals of iron, carbon, and whatever alloying metals are present come apart from their neat little stacks and get disordered. The metal that's left is more randomly arranged, so you can end up with very brittle (easy to break) or very soft (easy to deform) metal instead of what you started with.

Now, it's only maybe half the width of a pencil lead at most, but that's happening on the part of the knife that you rely on to cut things. It won't stop cutting, but what happens is that it gets dull much faster than it otherwise would. This means that your knife not only wont last, but it needs sharpening sooner, which reduces the life of the knife.

By the time you would feel any heat, it's too late. There are ways to mitigate that to some degree, but most people aren't set up to water cool their sanders/grinders.

As far as the burr goes, there's absolutely one still there. That's the only thing that will cause one side of a knife to be duller than the other. The little V of a knife that is the edge, when the burr is absent, will always cut in either direction approximately equal. Equal enough that you'd have to do some very sensitive testing to tell the difference, and even that won't be there on a theoretically perfectly formed edge.

You simply can't remove a burr on a running belt. No matter how fine the grit, the speed involved curls the side away from the belt. Now, you could stop the belt, and use very low pressure strokes to remove the burr on that surface. Same as with a stone in that regard.

I can't recall which model you said in the post, but most of the ones I've either used or seen used wouldn't be my top pick up deburr on, but it should be doable as long as you go slow and the device is stable.

Unlike stropping on a piece of leather though, you do the movement with the edge leading, just like you would if sharpening on a stone. But you do it at a wider angle, and with the gentlest amount of pressure possible as you go. You're wanting to mostly wiggle the burr without also doing much material removal as you go. There's always some material removed, but with a light enough touch, it won't be enough to cause an even smaller burr.

Tbh, I stopped using leather strops at all years ago based on some of the microscope images and videos that got shared at r/sharpening on reddit. Doing it on the stone is just faster and easier once you get a feel for the degree of pressure needed. So, if you can position things right to give you a stable surface to use, no need to mess with a dedicated strop, assuming you'll keep using the belt grinder. I've had to improvise sharpening on sandpaper before, which is essentially the same thing, and you can definitely deburr on that kind of surface.

And, I agree, a loupe, or other magnifier that can get you to enough magnification to see the scratch pattern on the edge is a major plus. I had a usb microscope I was using for a while, and it's lowest setting was 50×, and that was plenty for checking a burr. Overkill tbh. So a loupe should be about perfect.

Fwiw, all of this stuff I'm talking about here, I picked up from knifesteelnerds, Scienceofsharp, and the guys at r/sharpening for the most part. The subreddit is essentially useless now, but there's info on it for how to access the discord server the really knowledgeable guys migrated to.

Yup, it can happen anywhere. The only question is if it will, and if so, when.

It won't be like people think it would be, but it's entirely possible.

Honestly? Don't use belt sharpeners, they fuck the metal up at the very edge. I'll explain more if you want, but people turn into assholes about the subject, so I don't go deeper without an invitation to do so.

That being said, what you're dealing with is a burr.

When you sharpen a knife on anything the very edge gets bent over a little. It kinda rolls, and that's what is behind a knife being sharp on one side and not another.

Doesn't matter what the angle is, what the surface is, it's about the physics involved in using abrasives and pressure on steel (or other metals). You can't avoid building a burr, so you don't try to. Instead, you work with it.

Since you're using a grinder, you can't use the usual method of "stropping" where you use the stone itself to gradually thin out and remove the burr (which, at a small enough scale, there's still some burr left).

So you'll have to actually strop, unless you have a stone handy. Any piece of leather will do because you don't need abrasive for this. I say that because they're are traces of silicates in leather, and some hides have more than others, so people tend to think you have țo strop om a leather that's more gritty. All you have to do is alternate running the blade from spine to edge across the leather on each side. This "wiggles" the burr until it snaps off, leaving a more even edge.

Most of the time, people get hung up on the angle being precise and even across the length of the blade and think that's the problem with their results. It very rarely is because the exact angle doesn't matter at all past a fairly obtuse angle (anything where the angle of the edge with both sides taken into account is less than about 45 degrees). It's a little less rare that it's the angle being the same along the edge because as long as the actual edge, the very tippy tip sharp part is even, the rest only matters in terms of how easy it will get through material that's thicker.

Consistent edges help cutting, but they aren't essential to sharpness or keenness.

Sharpness is the degree of angle behind the actual cutting edge, and keenness is how thin that cutting edge is. When you look at edges under a microscope, the difference is more discernable than with the naked eye (and the site knifesteelnerds can show you such images, and links to others). What it amounts to is that it doesn't matter what angle you sharpen at, or what you use to get that angle, what matters is that microscopic edge and how thin it is and how even it is.

So, with a belt grinder, use faster passes across the belt, use mild to soft pressure, and deburr once your angle is set.

You can test for a burr visually, but it's easier to run a fingernail from the spine of the blade down to the edge, on each side. The side with the burr is going to catch the fingernail. But you can't just strop that side. You gotta do both because that burr can switch sides. You actually want it to, because that gets it to come off, leaving the edge as clean as it gets.

Again, don't worry about the edges being even per se. That's only really important in details of use, not in getting a good cutting edge. A good cutting edge is about that microscopic edge being relatively even and as thin as possible.

That's fucking brilliant