Warmapper is on mastodon by the way.

Mighty Doom. Some of the Netflix games.

In Jerboa? Yeah. There's other apps for Android though in development.

For example I'm enjoying Thunder: https://github.com/hjiangsu/thunder/releases/download/v0.2.1%2B7/thunder-v0.2.1+7.apk

And there's also Liftoff and Connect for Lemmy on the Play store.

Yeah I'll mention it.

Our one admin jelloeater has started one: http://lemmy-status.org/

Do you have "Show read posts" deselected in your profile?

This was a server error we resolved with a restart.

Yeah looks like Mica and sandstone. Unfortunately landscapers/contractors love to just cover things up with top soil and run away.

Oh man that is awesome. I agree the costs of Journaling apps are way too high. Could you add Tradovate import format? I could provide a sample if needed.

Have you tried flushing cache with Ctrl + F5?

In my opinion it depends on what is behind the tile. If they tiled over drywall and there's no waterproof barrier, like an old build, then I'd say yeah it's beneficial to block out the water (since grout is porous). Otherwise, probably not as critical.

The rocks could be tightly packed silt, loose sandstone, or maybe mica from excavation. Pictures would help.

Considering how problematic water heaters can be, I'd refuse shipment on that. Especially with the glass lining. It looks like someone hit it with a forklift or something.

This is me, lol.

Actually just had a short conversation with @[email protected] about the latency. We're going to try and address that for those of us outside of Europe.

Fuck no!

Thank you!

It's honestly really easy. The internet makes it out to be so much scarier than it is. The windows even come with instructions, lol.

1. Remove the sash bead with a knife and prybar carefully.
2. Remove your panes, usually with double toggles, or pushing to the side if it's spring-loaded on one side.
3. Remove any additional wood stops or brackets in the windows frame except for the very outer one at top.
4. Fix any rotten wood, paint the sill.
5. If you want an A+ on the install, also add an adhesive/tar waterproofing strip on the bottom third of the window frame.
6. Insert the window, and shims on the sides where the screws go.
7. Screw the window in.
8. Adjust tightness to ensure smooth operation, fiddle with shims as-needed.
9. Trim shims and spray-foam the cracks.
10. Trim off spray-foam once dry.
11. Re-attach sash bead and caulk/sand/paint.
12. Caulk exterior and anything else you can find.

Some windows will have additional steps like drilling small weep holes on the outside corners and stuff, but it's just a "read the instructions" thing.

Hah, did the same. I removed all of the old insulation too, which was worse! Sealed cracks and holes, then blew in new loose fiberglass up to R-60.

The key with windows is reducing your cost. I too received a quote for $30-40k back in the day... so I did it myself with vinyl replacements (double pane, argon, etc). Ended up spending only a few thousand total for the whole house, I know I did a better job than the local contractor because I spent my time and did it right.

We had a massive comfort difference due to the old windows being extremely drafty (1960's original wood single-pane). In my opinion that's the biggest benefit. We also were able to remove our storm windows, so improved exterior visibility, reduced cleaning, and improved curb appeal in my opinion.

Energy-savings, yeah not so much unless you DIY like I did to keep the cost down.