I'd just search YT or the regular interwebs for tutorials on designing compliant mechanisms in CAD (pick upur favorite software). I know Teaching Tech has done a couple videos on this

I usually click the icon on my phone and it opens, but ymmv...

Just kidding. Click search, find a topic that interests you and hit subscribe. Then you should be able to go to your settings and make only your subscriptions show up on your landing/home page

https://youtu.be/C7tydu_erZo?si=YlGy1_gLnLM9jL4W

Mr beast has 7 monies. That's 9 more monies than I have

Glock did: https://www.lasermax.com/products/internal-lasers/glock.html

Orca slicer is a fork of Prusaslicer

Yeah Bambu Studio is available and works fine on Manjaro (I'm too lazy to build arch from scratch nowadays), obviously ymmv on another distro.

Bambu firmware is closed source. I'm 100% happy with my Bambu, but that being said, Prusa makes amazing printers. However, like everything else, it comes with a price. Buying used is an option, just note you'll ideally want to see it in person and printing before plunking down cash. As good as their printers are, you could still be buying someone else's problem.

Totally agree on the core xy printers, I think OP was trying to keep cost under $500, so that would limit to P1P, but still a great printer, you can add the enclosure kit later if you want. I'm interested in the Sovol SV08, basically a Voron clone for $579 USD. I just don't want to be the 1st on to try it 🤣

You can use OrcaSlicer, another Prusaslicer fork

I second Bambu printers. My P1S was as simple as taking it out of the box, pulling out the included accessories, take out three screws that keep the bed from moving during shipping, plug in cord. During setup it will run a self-calibration routine and you're all set. I thought I liked tinkering with my Ender 3v2, but when I needed to print, a failure would cost me time, effort and money. Stick with the better printers if you can afford it.

Ngl that's fucking genius

Shit I missed where you said glued neck, you'd know if it was loose. Derp! Just check the bushings and the bolt/threaded rod they ride on and make sure there's no wiggle room there, a loose or wallered out threaded bushing can affect tuning stability. Just making sure you check everything before throwing money at it.

Yeah, just double check that there's no wiggle there or in the neck to rule those out, no sense throwing money at tuners if it's not going to fix the problem.

And I have an Ibanez that's 3x3, but the string angle at the nut is much less pronounced on it versus the Gibson/Epiphone angle, along with a shallower headstock break angle. Not saying it's your issue, but binding can occur there, although you did say you swapped it for a graphtech which should eliminate that as a point of concern.

I forgot to mention, on the 3x3 Gibson style headstock, the string pull angle is not great on both your E strings, and to less extent the A and B and could be binding. Another thing that just popped in my head - I'm not familiar with that particular model, but if it's a bolt-on neck, make sure the neck is tight and not moving at all. Another place to check is the bridge and tail piece, I'm assuming it's a Tune-O-Matic style. Check if you're having binding issues at the saddles, and that the threaded inserts (bushings) in the body aren't loose - this happens on Gibsons and Epiphones as well. If that's the case, take the bridge and tail piece out and carefully wick in some super thin CA glue to help stiffen them up

Gotoh makes good tuners as well, just not sure you'd need them to be locking on a non-trem guitar, but to each their own 🙃

If they're the same spec as Gibson tuners, I believe Kluson makes some direct fit replacements

They don't fly, that's for plebs. They teleport

I mean, if it's gonna happen, what better way than on a giant tube full of screaming people freaking out for the last few moments of my life?

So what you're saying is, I should exclusively fly on Boeing planes?