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mumei mumei @lemmy.world
Posts 5
Comments 42
How would you go for a 500-600€ build able to handle 2023-2024 gaming standards
  • You will have to look at the second hand market for sure, but you can probably get a decent 1080p 80-100fps medium/high build.

    Something like (or equivalent):

    Ryzen 5 3600

    RX 6600

    16GB DDR4

    1TB SSD (probably not NVMe)

    Whatever case

    Whatever monitor, even if only 60Hz, for now

    Whatever MoBo

    Tier A PSU from the Cultists Network PSU tier list

    You can most likely get everything used if you buy from a second hand shop that has a form of buyer protection (eBay and similar) and thoroughly check and clean and test everything you buy

  • Escape From Tarkov is getting microtransactions
  • I see, thank you!

    Gating it behind EoD was already not great, since it's no progression and all, but now asking a price for it..? Unless it's a trivial amount, like $2, I really can't see why would anyone pay for it. A real raid would be better in all conceivable ways, except the stress of course. You can acquire map knowledge on your own oflline raid, ad PvP against friends, while useful to an extent, without the actual risk of losing your gear won't be as good as real PvP.

  • Escape From Tarkov is getting microtransactions
  • EoD has offline coop?

    we removed the EoD version and some of the EoD features need to go back (offline co-op for example)

    Not that it matters too much, as playing only against bots isn't what EFT is good for, in my opinion

  • Display issue
  • Haven't seen this mentioned, but did you make sure to plug the display cable into the GPU and not the MoBo?

    edit: nvm, just saw a comment with same suggestion

  • Some help needed with a build
  • Nitro+ worth it?

    I guess not for that much more. A 10% increase is substantial, and I don't think the difference in actual performance is enough to justify it; but you also said that your region can get toasty in summer, and the Nitro+ has better cooling which could help. I don't think the Pulse will get too hot to work, but it may be something to consider!

    DDR5

    Those are one of the best performance to price ratio, and they're very inexpensive for what they are (plus full support for AMD overclocking, EXPO I think it's called); you can also go higher frequency, but prices will go up as well.

    cooler

    Good call then, AIO will probably perform a bit better with extreme high ambient temps

    970

    All good, a 970 Evo Plus might be cheaper so why not!

    5.0

    Yeah, there's no way gaming will saturate PCIe 5.0 anytime soon, no need to pay premium for specs you won't benefit from

    Happy building and gaming!

  • Some help needed with a build
  • About RAM, Trident Z5 NEO @ 6000Mhz seems to be the best price/performance ratio.

    About GPU, I'd personally go for a Sapphire as they're one of the historic AIB for AMD GPUs and I also dig a lot the design of the Nitro+ lol

    See if you can save something on the MoBo (by getting a lower trim) and 2x2TB might be a bit overkill for gaming only (ofc it depends on your habits, but I personally don't have games installed for more than 500-600GB). Also, you picked two PCIe 4.0 NVMEs, so maybe consider a 970 Evo Plus if it's cheaper than the 980 Pro

    About cooler, I'd prefer an old fashioned air cooler simply because it can't leak lol

  • Considering DJMAX Respect V. Should I get it or the classic PSP games are "enough"?
  • Yeah, I know, I feel the same for the most part, but I'm definitely itching for some more DJMax, I have hundreds of hours on the PSP games, and there isn't really anything else like it. Guess I'll have to pass though and keep consuming my PSP haha why did they have to make it always online, makes me sad

  • Considering DJMAX Respect V. Should I get it or the classic PSP games are "enough"?

    I'm not sure whether or not to get it because I'm not a fan of the always-online DRM (I just want to play by myself, like in the good old games, absolutely no interest in the multiplayer) and I already have that since I own all the PSP games.

    I'd have to give a listen to the new songs I guess and decide based on that, since I can't play those any other ways.

    I'd also buy the game and DLCs only on very deep discounts, 80% off and higher, since, well, it's basically a live service game, meaning I probably won't be able to play anymore once they shutdown the servers for whatever reason...

    What do you all think?

    2
    Any Anomaly mods to make creatures faster?
  • That sounds like good practice, thanks!

  • Any Anomaly mods to make creatures faster?
  • Thanks for the reply!

    player speed

    Tried that already, since GAMMA allows to modify it straight from the mod menu, but I can't go too low with character movespeed otherwise it feels very unnatural.

    steam discussion

    Thanks, even though that's for SoC and CS I also agree that it should be very similar for Anomaly as well. I'll check that out later, hopefully nothing breaks haha

  • Any Anomaly mods to make creatures faster?

    I don’t like being able to outrun most creatures in the Zone (in what world a man carrying 30kg of equip can run faster than dogs?), so does anyone know of a mod to increase creatures’ running speed? Also, can I add it to a GAMMMA install without breaking anything?

    Thanks in advance!

    edit: if not a mod, I'd also take a way to manually edit a file where creatures' speeds are stored

    4
    Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?
  • Sorry for late reply, app kept saying "this account is being verified" and I coulnd't comment or anything else.

    Anyways, I kept them. One drive loss won't be catastrophic (got two mirrored and also spare backup), so I decided to go for it!

  • Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?
  • Sorry for late reply, app kept saying "this account os being verified" and I coulnd't comment or anything else.

    In the end I decided to keep them, considering the store provides warranty! Loving the gigantic storage amount I have now haha

  • Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?
  • Sorry for late reply, app kept saying "this account os being verified" and I coulnd't comment or anything else.

    Anyway, yes, the store I bought them from is a legit store and provides warranty, so I decided to keep the drives!

  • Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?
  • I was a bit off, they were 15% cheaper than the Ironwolf on the same website/from same seller (156, not USD, vs 179, not USD).

    For a better comparison, I went to WD's official store and for what I spent on these two 8TB Exos (312, not USD) I can get two 4TB Red Plus (310, not USD). Can't make a direct comparison with other Seagates because their "buy now" section redirects me to Amazon, which, as you said, is not the best since they allowed third party sellers, but on there the 8TB Ironwolf is 250 (!!).

    As you already know, I'm not in the US so I can't buy from there. Unfortunately, Seagate's "buy now" section (which should be official retailers) brings me to either Amazon or other chains that don't have much else besides portable drives.

    At this point I have two options, really: try again the same online store (which is kinda like Amazon, many third party sellers), but getting Ironwolf, which should be more likely to be "legit", and of course check them as well when they arrive, or settle for two 4TB WD Red Plus (which isn't ideal as I'm already nearing 2.5TB total, but should allow me to get by a while longer) bought directly from WD.

    edit: looking at the link you provided, I paid 30% less for my Exos. Would that sway you towards keeping it without warranty (apart from the seller's, which is one year I think)? Mind that I don't need enterprise-grade drives, and I think even NAS drives are overkill for my needs. For example a WD Blue with its 55TBW per year might be enough for me (that's 150GB a day everyday for a year, which is above my average writes), but those don't come big enough (I need 6TB min to be comfortable) nevermind, they do come in 8TB size, just at a lower spinning speed (5640rpm), but they cost more (267) than the Ironwolf, and are SMR and have 128MB cache. Sounds like a bad deal!

  • Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?
  • No I don't, I wrote it in the OP haha unless there's a way to know it by looking up the S/N. Have to check.

    How can you be so sure they're older? They were sold to me as new and they did come in the usual sealed plastic wrap.

    Anyway I don't think saving some money is worth more than a full warranty, so I'm basically set on returning them and get something else

  • datahoarder @lemmy.ml mumei @lemmy.world

    Bought a couple of Exos 7E10 8TB drives, warranty status says "initially sold as part of a larger system, contact seller". It means I can't take advantage of their five years warranty, doesn't it?

    I admit they were way too cheap for what they are (like 15% cheaper than same-size Ironwolf), so I gambled it haha there were no indications that these drives were OEM or similar.

    Back to issue at hand: since I can't personally have the five years warranty on these, only the original purchaser can, and I have no way to know who they are and when they bought them, I should just return them, right? And maybe buy the next ones only from authorized sellers?

    edit: also, now that I think about it, and before I make the same mistake twice, there's no way I can get enterprise drives as a normal consumer, can I, at least not brand new? I expect any enterprise drives I can find will have the same issue, i.e. bought by someone else for servers or similar, and then resold, correct?

    edit 2: actually WD sells enterprise drives on their website, so my previous assumption about it was wrong

    13
    God of War is coming to GOG
  • Agree, I stopped buying Sony games because of that

  • What will you do once windows 10 is deprecated and you have to update to windows 11 or 12?
  • I feel the pain: began my Linux journey some four months ago, tried Ubuntu first, played with it a bit for a couple days, abandoned it; then tried PoP!_OS, got it up and running, broke it, wiped it; tried again and it finally clicked! I'm now dailying it, and it's been pretty good so far!

    Keep trying without forcing yourself, maybe try different distros depending on what you need!

  • What will you do once windows 10 is deprecated and you have to update to windows 11 or 12?
  • I saw W11 in action on a different PC and that made me stay on W10. In the meantime, I researched Linux and dipped my toes in it for a while. Just made PoP! _OS my daily driver (installed on my main NVME), with much less pain than I thought, while I moved W10 on a secondary, old and small SSD, only for those games that don't work in Proton/Wine.

    It is a bit difficult to learn everything from scratch, but it's a small price to pay, to be honest

  • NAS build, what's wrong with it?
  • Thanks a lot for all the help! You've been very patient and helpful, I appreciate that! Have a nice day!

  • datahoarder @lemmy.ml mumei @lemmy.world

    NAS build, what's wrong with it?

    I want to setup a NAS (mainly for storing games and videos), that I'd also like to use to watch said videos on a WiFi TV and to install games on a separate PC connected via ethernet. This is the part list I came up with (plus whatever GPU I can get for as cheap as possible, I can probably get a GT 730 GTX750 for free). I also don't need it to be on 24/7, if that's OK. I can place it in the same room as my main PC and hook it up to the same monitor to turn it on and start it up.

    What's wrong with it?

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- CPU | AMD Ryzen 3 3100 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $50.00 Motherboard | ASRock A520M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | $99.40 Memory | Kingston Server Premier 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL19 Memory | $36.00 Memory | Kingston Server Premier 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL19 Memory | $36.00 Storage | Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00 Storage | Seagate IronWolf NAS 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive | $118.00 Storage | Seagate IronWolf NAS 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive | $118.00 Video Card | Gigabyte GV-N750OC-1GI GeForce GTX 750 1 GB Video Card | Purchased For $0.00 Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $117.70 Power Supply | be quiet! Pure Power 11 CM 400 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $58.10 | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | | Total | $633.20

    PCPP says that R3 3100 isn't compatible with the RAM I picked (although I can't find why); it also says MoBo doesn't support ECC RAM, but on the producer's website it says it does (https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A520M-ITXac/index.asp#Specification) , so I think PCPP is wrong.

    I tried building around LGA 1150/1151 but motherboard prices are way higher (although CPU prices are lower).

    I don't think I can make it much cheaper than this, since I'm buying everything, but if you can point me in a cheaper direction, feel free to do so!

    Thanks in advance

    24

    Sanity check request! Part list is basically finalized, requesting a final check for incompatibilities or other issues between parts that I'll keep from my current PC and new parts!

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor | $155.50 CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $0.00 Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $0.00 Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory | Purchased For $0.00 Storage | Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00 Video Card | Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card | $925.00 Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $0.00 Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS 850 Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $129.00 Monitor | Gigabyte G34WQC 34.0" 3440 x 1440 144 Hz Curved Monitor | $390.00 | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | | Total | $1599.50 | Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-10-16 05:42 EDT-0400 |

    Ignore prices: I'm going to buy from different stores and I couldn't bother inputing prices manually actually went and edited prices, also removed unnecessary bits as they were causing some confusion haha

    This part list fits my budget and it's unlikely I will make changes to it, unless there are big issues with compatibility in which case the only change I can make is to go for a 7800XT instead to open up some of the budget to fix those issues.

    Objective is playing AAA games at 3440*1440 100+ fps (ideally 120+), high-ultra with no RT and hopefully no FSR; what I'm keeping from current build are RAM and MoBo (plus case, CPU cooler, fans, and drives, but these shouldn't cause any issues). I listed current drives, fans, etc. just to get a somewhat accurate total power draw to pick the right PSU.

    I know about case GPU length restrictions, that's why there's a slim fan in the list that will be mounted front bottom, to accomodate the long GPU (Fractal's website says maximum GPU length with front fan is 315mm, standard fan is 25mm deep, 7900XT is 320mm and the slim fan is 16mm deep, so I should have 4mm of wiggle room!).

    My main doubt is about huge bottlenecks with either RAM or MoBo. I'm keeping those and I'd rather not change them, because that would mean having to get a 7800XT instead (I know, for example, that a faster and lower CL RAM will give me slightly better FPS, although my current sticks are running at 3466Mhz and CL18, so not too bad, but I'm not looking to min-max to the last minute detail), unless such dated parts would cause huge bottlenecks that would make that GPU a total waste.

    PC will be used exclusively for gaming.

    Thanks for any and all suggestions!

    edit: after a bit more researching, I ditched the AOC U34G3XM and picked this Gigabyte after watching the video by Hardware Unboxed

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5FunMmbztw

    The only bottleneck I see is the PCIe on the motherboard, which is only 3.0 x16, while the 7900XT is 4.0 16x. Not the end of the world, though, so I will pull the trigger in the next few days. Thanks everyone for your help!

    29