Skip Navigation
InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)DA
Dangerhart @lemm.ee
Posts 1
Comments 27
*Permanently Deleted*
  • To add, you may not need to worry too much about setting up a firewall if your machine is behind a router/gateway that also has a firewall. There are arguments both ways, I would suggest researching that some. I did it because I could so why not, but I also only have wireguard exposed publicly so it may be over kill

  • *Permanently Deleted*
  • I too read that it didn't work with docker but that was not my experience on Ubuntu 24.04. Maybe it's just docker desktop but I had all sorts of other issues with docker desktop and ditched it for plain docker, using lazydocker for an interface. I think one of the issues for outgoing connections at least is that IPs for the containers can change. I don't remember exactly what my setup is currently but you shouldn't have an issue opening up just specific ports mapped to a container while having default deny incoming. Not specific to containers but there are a few different Linux commands to get all ports and the processes listening on them, I used them extensively to debug my firewall setup. I can't remember them either off the top of my head but you should be able to google for your distro.

  • Shared grocery list suggestions?
  • It drives me crazy that notes does not reorganize the list when you check things, but that's probably because it's just markdown. My wife also refuses to use it. Carnet is the google keep like alternative that I think would work for me, but the sharing isn't working currently, whenever the note is updated the share is removed.

  • Take-Two CEO: The idea that AI will make everyone unemployed is 'the stupidest thing I've ever heard'
  • This is the exact opposite of my experience. We've been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it's garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I'm pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don't exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn't have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it's been a waste of time and money.

  • What causes this on PLA? Too little cooling? Or possibly too much??
  • It's been a while since I've printed but I think both my sidewinder and voron do this. I don't remember having it after switching to abs. Painted on supports and wider extrusions helped a ton if I remember correctly. Good luck!

  • Why am I having to level my Ender 3 s1 after every print?
  • It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren't printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it's not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

  • Can I plug Nevermore filter where I circled?
  • Honestly if your going to go through all this effort to make this work, and already have a pi, I would suggest instead upgrade the control board to something with extra fan headers, led heads, etc and switch to klipper, there have to be guides out there for your specific printer

  • Can I plug Nevermore filter where I circled?
  • Powering the fan from gpio pins probably isn't going to work out well either, they are 3.3v and 5v. Powering the fan from the PSU is going to be similar to powering a pi off it, I believe you should step the voltage down to what each needs, where the fan is 24v I think the pi is 5v. Your PSU is probably 115 or 220 v. For connectors I would expect to have to redo them yourself with micro fit, molex, jst or w/e you want and can get. On some of mine I just did single pin molex on the pins of the white female connector for fan headers, it doesn't lock but it works if you don't have a lot of movement. This page is awesome for connectors info https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/

  • Can I plug Nevermore filter where I circled?
  • Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

  • Spool Management for Klipper!
  • Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I've not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it's been great.

  • Formbot Voron 2.4 kits ok?
  • I did the dragon HF, my kit came with whatever was before stealthburner and I bought an upgrade kit from 3dwest and went straight to that, so I never used the formbot fans and motor

  • Formbot Voron 2.4 kits ok?
  • I built one about a year ago and it's been great. At that point they didn't include a lot of the stuff they do now, so my SB/CW2, nevermore, chamber LEDs, etc. were sourced separately and I didn't use most of what they provided for the hot end

  • Looking for fold case recommendations

    I can't quite seem to find a case I'm happy with. I usually get a plain clear all TPU case that is both pretty thin but good for drops. I don't care if it yellows and I don't really like the tough/OtterBox style bulky cases. I have the google case and my problems with it are the lack of camera bar coverage, I've already dinged mine, and how hard/not drop friendly the front half is. The back seems a little too soft, one of the corners is slightly torn from the previously mentioned drop, but I'd rather that than what the material of the front is. I picked up one of these from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/314678008376 but it doesn't close all the way, doesn't fit great in some spots and is also a little too hard, otherwise it would be great. At this point I'm leaning toward just using the google case and trying to find a skin to cover the camera. I'm also willing to pay a bit more if it hits everything I want. Anyone have good suggestions?

    7
    How do you all keep your z home consistent?
  • Sorry I just realized the way I described everything was actually pretty confusing. After every print I run a clean macro that moves the nozzle up front and heats to 230 and sits there. After about 10 minutes I wipe it then have a clean complete macro to cool down and move it back to the center. Then I start a print and the homing etc is all done at a lower temp, I can't remember if it's static or nozzle temp -75c or something

  • How do you all keep your z home consistent?
  • To keep the squish consistent. I assumed it was because the nozzle is expanding more at higher temps but it could just expansion differences in the material or something else I guess. My start up script is homing at nozzle temp - 75c or something like that, most people with a brush just do the home at temp so there is no change. And yeah I forget about it sometimes too 😂