First builds! Absolutely hooked
First builds! Absolutely hooked
I got the Z’Gok in Odaiba while on my honeymoon and visiting the Unicorn. Just finished the Guncannon I got online. I also have the clear color Heavyarms from Gundam Factory Yokahama, starting it next, although the clear plastic is intimidating!
Been using Raser glass file and Balancer with Tamiya sharp sided nippers. Struggling with the craft knife to cut nubs off, find the file much easier. Using Tamiya panel liner and I haven’t mastered it yet, too messy or not dark enough. Any tips appreciated!
Was thinking about painting the Heavyarms grey weapon parts with metallic paint.
Looking good, glad you're enjoying!
Using Tamiya panel liner and I haven’t mastered it yet, too messy or not dark enough. Any tips appreciated!
If you're using the ink/flow type out of the jar, there are absolutely some things to keep in mind.
- Do NOT use it on ABS plastic. Inner frames are commonly made from ABS, but most Gunpla parts are made from polystyrene (PS). There will be a marking on the back of the runner (usually on a number tag) indicating the plastic type.
- Even on PS, don't let it get between parts. If it cannot evaporate properly, it will start to eat the plastic. The easiest way to avoid this is to line it before assembling.
- There's going to be overflow. If there's pooling, wick it up with a paper towel or swab, and use less liner next time. 🙃 Otherwise, let it set inside the line, if not fully dry, before attempting cleanup. My preferred method is to use a cotton swab lightly dampened with isopropyl alcohol and run it perpendicular across the panel line, rolling the swab a bit in the opposite direction of the motion. This should leave you with a nice crisp line.
- Some kits use a more matte plastic, such as a lot of the Witch from Mercury line. Flow-type liners have more trouble here compared to the standard glossy plastic. Rather than fight with the ink, I went back to the pen type liners.
Edit: About clear plastic: it's a bit harder/more brittle than standard plastic. If you have single bladed nippers, it's probably better to set those aside and use a more standard pair. The nub marks are going to be more difficult to clean up, but you're already using a glass nanofile and buffer so you're ahead of the game. 👍 Otherwise, there's nothing really intimidating about clear kits. Some hate 'em. I like the options they present (though I'm not particularly fond of the milky white they sometimes use). I gloss coated my first few clear kits and really liked the shine. Some folks also paint the undersides of parts - that might be a way to approach the Heavyarms weapons.
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I am doing the ink/flow method, I did consider getting a quill. I must admit I'd not been paying enough attention to the plastic type, but I think I've only done the PS. I will be careful with the in-between parts, might try lining before assembly next time. I've been using Mr Color 400 thinner, but I've got ISO as well. I was definitely taking too much off so I might need try this method and maybe wait a little longer before cleanup. Honestly I don't hate a little smudging, feels like it fits the aesthetic, but I need to get better at it. Not encountered the matte yet, good to know if I get the Aerial or any other Witch from Mercury kit.
Can you provide any additional details on the underside painting? Tried Googling with no success.
I was thinking about cutting the weapon parts away from the other parts, but keep them on the runner. Then try to spray paint them, sadly I don't have the space for a airbrush in my NYC apartment, spray paint off the balcony is the best I can do. I've sticky tac'd 40k minis to cardboard and then sprayed them, feel like I need some crocodile clips and dowel so I can hold the parts and spray a coat on them.
Bonus question: Red theme on my desk, suggestions for cool red and white HG (144) kits?
I’ve been using Mr Color 400 thinner, but I’ve got ISO as well.
If it works, cool. There's a whole hierarchy on what paint types can go on top of what without damaging the undercoat, but I'm not well versed. If the thinner is cleaning up the liner, it's probably fine. Alcohol is my go-to due to the low fumes.
Can you provide any additional details on the underside painting?
Instead of painting the outside of the part, paint the inside. When assembled, the clear part is still exposed and the paint underneath comes through. If metallic paint is used, you also get some shine. I used the Heavyarms' gatling as an example above, but after a quick search it looks like those parts are still in regular gray plastic. Oops! I can see how that would create confusion, my apologies.
feel like I need some crocodile clips and dowel so I can hold the parts and spray a coat on them.
This is the way to go. Any parts that are too small or don't have a handy post, you can sticky tack it to the dowel. And cardboard cat scratch toys work great as a dowel storage/part drying device.
You'll want to steer clear of spraying while on the runner. Most kits aren't undergated, so the nubs and any cleanup will mess with your spray job. You can make it work if you want to, it's just a lot of touching up.
Bonus question: Red theme on my desk, suggestions for cool red and white HG (144) kits?
There are a ton of red kits but not a whole lot of red and white ones. The first thing that jumped to mind for whatever reason is the Re-Zeon Barzam. It's gotten a few reprints in the past year or so but who knows when the next one will be. More mainstream would the the Astray Red Frame, which also has an RG kit available. Decidedly less mainstream is the Zogok (Unicorn version), though that's more red and gray. And if you want a big slab of lobster on your desk (and I mean big), go with the Nightingale.
Edit: one more for the red and white pile: Marsfour Gundam. The Core Gundam is a neat little dude all on its own, and the red and white Mars armor goes on top. It's pretty sharp.
