Help soldering disconnected cable from laptop charger
How am I supposed to soldering this? I have both soldering iron and a spool of solder. But most videos show soldering wires instead of what I need as you can see in the picture (disconeted cable on a laptop charger). I would higly appreciate any info and tutorial videos on this.
it's hard to make out the photo solder flows towards the heat. Get a little solder onto each surface that you need to join, put it together and briefly touch them together before letting the solder fuse. You just need a solid connection electrically - soldering isn't welding! So just a little solder, don't go crazy, keep a cloth on hand to wipe off any excess solder. It will be a lot easier if you have some way to hold it in place while you solder - alligator clips are good for this. Tin the iron with solder, get it nice and hot then drop a little on each end, put together and apply the iron to fuse them while they are held in place - you can use your fingers to hold it for about 10 seconds while it cools but the wire will get hot, so keep fingers back from the connection point.
Don't forget to add flux to the joint! Especially for large ones like a charger, the "flux core" isn't going to be enough. That core is just to keep the flux present as the solder flows, it won't help remove the oxide layers from the surfaces before starting.
And use a temperature-controlled iron if possible. Much more likely to work properly, less likely to destroy the board by lifting a pad. 350°C should be plenty for most solder alloys.
You have a fair bit of room inside that plug, you can't really go wrong unless you let stuff overheat. see if you can get a little solder on the top of the plug joint, then a little on the wire - then hold them together and apply the iron for 3-4 seconds. Assuming the iron is hot enough, that should be enough to melt them together. It's intimidating at first, just take your time. it only takes a few seconds to get things hot enough to melt the solder, so don't leave the iron on anything longer than about 5 seconds - once the solder starts to run, remove the heat and it will fuse as it cools. try to stay away from the plastic housing, obviously - but it wont matter if you accidentally touch the iron to the plastic - the only way you can screw this up is to get the pin too hot so that it melts the plastic housing - you would have to leave the iron on it for longer than 5 seconds for that to happen. look at the other joint. You're trying to get it to look like that. It looks doable.
If I were you, I would take this to a professional- this is a quick fix if you have the right equipment and know how to do it safely. If that is plastic surrounding the cup, definitely refrain from soldering it yourself. If you want to go ahead and do it yourself, my best advice would be to research the charger- you will be less likely to damage it when you solder. See if you can find schematics, materials used, temperature ratings etc. Don't solder electronics with an iron without temperature control. As others said here, use flux!!! It's crucial for making a safe connection- figure out if you're using leaded or lead free solder and buy a syringe of the appropriate flux for it. Apply the flux to the joint and melt it with your iron. Melt some solder into the cup, and then heat the solder while lowering the wire in. The less time you have the iron in contact, the better your chances are, but make sure not to apply too little heat. Use 90% rubbing alcohol and a brush to clean the joint after.
That looks like a broken single piece. You might be able to get soldered. (See other guys post for the way to do it) but to be honest it probably won't last if holds at all.
I'd check e-bay for the whole connector piece. It looks designed to be easily replaced. I bet it comes with wires. What's on other end of wires? At worse, you solder splice the wires for something a lot stronger.
Edit: another other option. It looks hollow? If so, cut the broken end piece off wire completely. Strip the wire and slide it the hole directly. (May have to strip it down to fit) this would be much better than soldering the nub back on.