I have a desk with a section for a PC. The problem is my case is pretty tall. I'd have maybe an inch and a half of clearance above it. The case has 2 fans in front, 1 in the back, and 2 on top. I'd put it on the floor if It wasn't carpeted. Thank you!

Hello everyone, I need a bit of help trying to make sure my idea makes sense. Long story short I am converting my PC from air cooled to liquid cooled and need some help with filling up the coolant and avoiding air bubbles.

My idea is to use a brake bleeder to vacuum out the air from the custom loop then fill the loop with coolant.

!overview *** !fill bucket The first step is to have a bucket of coolant up high on a shelf so that gravity helps fill the whole system. I will submerge the hose with the valve open to let out any air in the hose, then close the valve and lift out that end of the hose and connect it to the Y splitter. This way there is no air in the first hose from the bucket. That alone I think would be enough to start pulling the coolant through and fill the case because of the suction and gravity. *** !vacuum air The second step would be to use the brake bleeder to vacuum out the air of the whole system. I am thinking like 10-15 psi should be good depending how much the soft hoses bend. Once the air is out I will close the valve to the vacuum and slowly open the valve to the coolant to start filling the system.

*** !coolant fill I connected the fill hose to a nipple fitting at the top of the reservoir/pump combo, and I connected the outlet port to the GPU block at the bottom. I imagine it will pull the coolant to the GPU first as coolant falls into the reservoir, then through the radiator, and then back to the inlet port at the top. It will fill up above where the inlet tube is so that it is submerged to prevent any bubbles in the future as coolant is pumped through. ***

!pump My concerns are that normally you connect the inlet and outlet to the bottom of the water pump, and if needed there are additional inlet ports on the top of the reservoir. I'm not sure if it matters that I use the top inlet only. The reason I switched to the top port was to try and make it make sense in my head on how the water would be sucked through when filling to avoid any air pockets in the radiator if it got sucked in from both ends.

!car The second concern is that my radiator is above the reservoir, on a car you usually fill the system from the top point on the radiator which is the highest spot. It seems confusing to me on the PC to fill it from a lower point. I think vacuuming out the air will help with any issues but I'm not 100% sure.

My current specs are Ryzen 7 5800x 32gb ram Gtx 1070

I have been meaning for a while to get a new gpu. But all the choices are overwhelming me.

I'm not looking into changing cpu any time soon so hopefully the choice will not be bottlenecking me

The budget I have is around 500$. Don't play anything too intense, so don't really need anything too fancy. The heaviest games I play are mostly VR.

Quick edit: List both an AMD and Nvidia option if possible. There's a non zero chance of me switching to Linux and want to make a more informed choice.

Hi

I own rx6600 since more than a year and what seems odd it's a bit loud, even with fan curves like this the fans spin up to the almost 2kRPM and hot spot temp is near 95°C:

!

and it's not like my case isn't well ventilated, i have 2 Arctic P12s blowing cold air from outside of the case directly at it, playing with fancontrol and hooking my case fans speed to the GPU temp lowers it quite a bit (barely above 90°C and 1800RPM) but it's still a bit more than I like and it prevents me from raising my power limit to 120W, then the card is whining at almost 3kRPM

Is my sample defective? its XFX variant, mainly 210 SWFT with two fans? i heard a lot about botched heating installation in GPUs, insufficient paste amount etc, could this be it?

I fix consumer (OEM/SI and custom builds) PCs and am training some co-workers that are currently less experienced in building. The big thing I would like to have around for everyone's benefit is simple charts for things like screws/mounts. With the sizes/dimensions/names, especially the specific technical names. That would make it easy to buy extras instead of just typing "standoffs" and getting all the sizes presented that aren't correct. Nothing is more frustrating than having all the parts, but not screws/standoffs/mounts/etc if there is an issue (sucks if a motherboard has an NVMe slot but the standoff and screw wasn't provided or lost).

That all being said, I would love to get whatever other folks have around for part charts. It is always nice to be able to show various examples of different parts that can help show differences if a physical item isn't around to demo. An easy example is showing how the different DDR generations have the notch in different places. Or Ethernet cable wire layout for re-heading a cable.

I have an LG-38WN95C monitor which has a single Thunderbolt 3 port, which I use for my work M1 Macbook Pro. It's really convenient to have a single cable running from my laptop to my monitor.

But is it possible to achieve something similar with a full desktop PC? My PC has discrete graphics and a motherboard with no video-capable Thunderbolt output.

I was thinking of using a Thunderbolt hub, but most of them look like they are for use cases where the Thunderbolt cable plugs into the host machine, and then the monitor and peripherals branch off from the hub using DisplayPort / HDMI and USB.

But I want to do the reverse for the video signal. I want the hub's Thunderbolt cable plugged into my monitor, with the hub's DisplayPort link used as an input, not an output, which is passed to the monitor.

I feel like Thunderbolt's bi-directional-ness and daisy-chainability should mean this is possible, but I have little experience using Thunderbolt and I find it difficult to understand what hardware is capable of what behaviors. And with Thunderbolt hubs as expensive as they are, I am hesitant to drop significant money on a blind experiment.

I'm currently using system from 2016, planning to upgrade. With current length of GPU, my current case can't accommodate them so need the case as well.

I'm thinking of Lian Li evo XL. however my question is regarding Linux compatibility for all the RGB elements (fans, AIO) etc. Are they well supported (if anyone have an experience)

I'm open to suggestions as well (case and cooling) If Lian Li is not supported.

Is there a website that supports pc builder for 1u server? I've supermicro chassis which I'm planning to populate with parts but figuring out parts hasn't been easy since I don't know about compatibility. Mainly looking for PSU, motherboard, CPU, RAM and storage - all these (without GPU) may not need compatibility as much but still good to know

cross-posted from: https://lemmygrad.ml/post/372601

> So as I've said I am making myself a workstation. I ordered this mobo from aliexpress. It's a dual socket LGA 2011-3 thing named ZX-DU99D4X8_V1.1 . It supports the Intel E5 2600 v4 line of processors. It also happens to have a misprinted QR code sticker on it. > > So far I have 2x 2650 v4 processors and 6x 16GB 2400Hz + 2x 8GB 2133Hz = 112GB of DDR4 for it. > > This guy wrote some stuff about the mobo and he says the bottom x16 PCIe is actually x8. > > > Rn I only have a R5 340X "Rebranded R7 250" for it but I want to get on of these cheap $80 NV K80's eventually. > > I only have 3 or so Dell 2007FPb monitors sitting around. But I hear that LCD and SSD prices should fall some before the end of this year, also GPUs may crash a bit. > > Thinking I want to get one of these cheap used/open box LG 32GN63T-B gaming monitors that are going on ebay for well below $200. > > All my watercooling parts are stuck in customs but for now the CPUs prob don't need it. > > > I don't want to get too into the weeds with this rn. I'm posting now that I've prepared all the measurements and a good photo of my mobo. > > ! > > And the measurements I made: > > ! > > Calibration: > > ! > > > So I need a working case. https://lemmygrad.ml/post/366303

TL;DR: dont buy "open box" products from Newegg