Climbing
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Should I get Scarpa Veloce L or Ocún Advancer LU?
I'm a beginner climber and I got Evolv Shamans in my street size a few weeks ago since I read good reviews about them and I got them pretty cheap as they were in the discounted section of my local climbing shop, but only in that size. They've been great at allowing me to stand on small edges and get better height on my toes due to the thick rand, but they hurt like hell to wear, making the benefits I gain from using them somewhat moot, as I'm not able to climb and improve as much as I'd like to.
I've been wearing them around the house in addition to the gym in the hopes of breaking them in quicker (I've had to wear plastic bags on my feet to prevent blisters on my heels and toes from excessive friction) and I noticed they don't really seem to have broken in that much and still hurt my toes a lot (especially the tops of my big toes), so I'd like some recommendations for the next pair that I get.
I have Morton's toe/Greek feet and my feet are probably wider and less-arched than average. I'd like to get a more comfortable pair for long gym sessions, so I think I'd prefer lace-up shoes in the future. I've narrowed my choices down to the Scarpa Veloce L and the Ocún Advancer LU, both of which are lace-up, apparently suited for Greek feet, and are vegan. I'd appreciate some comparisons if people have experience with them, or if you have recommendations for other shoes that might suit my criteria better, please share them too!
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Jabee Kim repeats La Révolutionnaire V16/8C+
https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/problem/la+r%C3%A9volutionnaire
- www.ukclimbing.com NEWS: 9b First Ascent for Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of Les Rois du Lithium, 9b, in Pic Saint Loup, France.
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/14695902
> NEWS: 9b First Ascent for Seb Bouin
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Feeling inconsistent
Does anyone have any tips for keeping going even when you're finding it hard to get started climbing?
I'd very much appreciate any tips at all.
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My mates first trad lead
The traversey third pitch of Indian Summer (18), up at the Remarkables, Queenstown, New Zealand
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Amazing video of beautiful hard corner climb by Amity Warme
YouTube Video
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The route is Book of Hate 5.13d. I don't know Amity Warme (my loss probably) nor the route - this was just such a great video I wanted to share it here. The climb is fantastic, and it's captured magnificently. Music stops just when it needs to, giving full exposure to her breathing and a nice windy background (or is that a road? whatever :) ). If you can spend the 9min, do it, otherwise skip roughly the first 4min to get some slow corner action leading up to the highlight.
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Simon Lorenzi made the third ascent of the Burden of Dreams
www.instagram.com Simon Lorenzi on Instagram: ""Burden of Dreams" 9A/V17 ✅ 27/12/2023 From being something not even imaginable in my craziest dreams not a long time ago to the achievement of a life goal. Big thanks to @lecampdebase.bxl for making this adventure possible. 🔥❤️ 📸 By the seul et unique @gilles.charlier"16K likes, 430 comments - simonlorenzi on December 28, 2023: ""Burden of Dreams" 9A/V17 ✅ 27/12/2023 From being something not even imaginable in my cra..."
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Le dos de l'éléphant - Bavella Corsica
Came back from a trip in Corsica where we climb the most mental slab I've ever put my hands on !
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Spent some time in Boulder CO for the first time and hopped on A Tall Cool One. Now that's the approach I'm looking for!
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105748478
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Jakob Schubert sends project big
www.youtube.com LIVE attempt SIX of Project Big in FlatangerAfter figuring out the beta of one of the hardest climbs in the Flatanger cave together with Adam Ondra last year, Jakob is now back in Norway trying to grab...
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Ondra was in the cellar!
YouTube Video
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I am a day late, but I can't find any mention of this monumental, once-in-a-lifetime event in the part of the fediverse I am connected to. Clearly this isn't ready for prime-time yet. Or real federated climbers just don't waste their time on the internet like I do :)
Anyway, I don't know why, but Tom and Pete just get me laughing and excited like crazy. And now that's combined with the beautiful sound of Adam grunting (spoiler alert: no power scream :( ) and confirming some O-grades. Feels like it's already Christmas.
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What's your favorite shoes?
Got a hole, yet again in my climbing shoes and need to buy some new ones before a climbing trip I'm going on next weekend so looking for some input. What's your favorite shoes, and why do you like them?
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Seb Bouin climbs ACL, 9b / 5.15b FA
www.instagram.com Seb Bouin on Instagram: "ACL 9b / 15b Movie is coming in September It will be a sick one ☝️ @altissimoescalade @blackdiamond 📸 @sambie_photography"1,113 likes, 1 comments - sebbouin on August 18, 2023: "ACL 9b / 15b Movie is coming in September It will be a sick one ☝️ @altissimoescalade @b..."
Adding to his impressive list of 9b and harder
https://www.hardestclimbs.com/sport/bouin
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Alex Megos and Prof. Dr. med. Volker Schöffl on IFSC not addressing growing eating disorder problem in climbing
YouTube Video
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Women's Combined Finals - Bern 2023
www.youtube.com Women's Boulder & Lead final || Bern 2023The 18th edition of the IFSC World Championships is organised in Bern, Switzerland, from 1 to 12 August. A total of 428 athletes from 54 countries and territ...
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Bern 2023 - World Championship - Women’s final
www.youtube.com Women's Boulder final || Bern 2023The 18th edition of the IFSC World Championships is organised in Bern, Switzerland, from 1 to 12 August. A total of 428 athletes from 54 countries and territ...
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Bern 2023 - World Championships - Men's boulder finals
www.youtube.com Men's Boulder final || Bern 2023The 18th edition of the IFSC World Championships is organised in Bern, Switzerland, from 1 to 12 August. A total of 428 athletes from 54 countries and territ...
First final of the World Championships in Bern starts today (18:30 local time) with the Men’s Boulder final.
Saturday will be Women’s Boulder final and on Sunday Lead final for both men and women.
Europeans need a VPN to watch the finals on Youtube.
Playlist for all other upcoming live streams: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLK6KXqT4FKpMdjVT7cv4exoNNCbOSGSQh
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"Kivinen sydän", the name of this boulder, means a stone heart.
YouTube Video
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Is the First Female 8C+ Coming Soon? [Article]
www.ukclimbing.com ARTICLE: Is the First Female 8C+ Coming Soon?Here's a look at twelve women who could shortly make bouldering history… There is no sport quite like rock climbing, where both women and men compete on even playing fields – be it up a...
My money is on Brooke!
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Getting into trad climbing - any tips?
I'm getting into trad climbing, after quite a few years of indoor and outdoor sport and bouldering. I'm very aware that trad climbing involves more risk, especially if you climb above your ability and/or are bad/inexperienced at placing runners. Does anyone here have tips on how best to practice protecting a route to the point where you feel safe enough to climb a difficult crux with only trad protection below you?
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Ryuichi Murai - Livin Large V15/V16 (8C/+)
www.instagram.com Ryuichi Murai / 村井隆一 on Instagram: "Livin' Large(V16/8C+)✅ Mega psyched! I've done the main goal of this tour! This line, which is over 8m high, was called the Real Big Project at the time. It was very intimidating to imagine the climbers who tried this in the past fell from the same height as a balcony on the third floor. The first half consisted of compression moves with friction slopers, and the second half was a mental battle(V11-ish) that required delicate footwork. It was only possible to try in perfect conditions in the early morning (~9:00), evening (17:00~), or cloudy day. However, the approach takes 45 minutes, so early in the morning there weren't enough time to warm up. In the evening there's only a short time after the rock cool down untill the sunset, so a cloudy day is the best. Due to friction issues, the damage to the finger skin was quite severe. If I tried, I had to rest for 2-3 days. So this cloudy day near the end of the tour was my last chance. The conditions were great on this day and every move worked perfectly on the second try. I just focused on each hold in front of me, and didn't feel any fear of heights. It would have been really bad if I missed the last move. I'm glad I climbed, but more than that I'm glad I didn't fall. Thank you to the tour members who helped me with the big hike for days🙏 And huge respect @nalle_hukkataival for putting this mega up!! ____________________________________ 今ツアー最大の目標である「Livin' Large(六段)」が登れた! 発見当時Real Big Projectと呼ばれていたこのラインは高さ8mを超え、過去にこれをトライしたクライマー達が3階のベランダと同等の高さから落ちていたことを想像すると初見の威圧感は半端なかった。 最初の数日間ロープ練に費やした結果、このラインは前半は強度の高いコンプレッションシーケンスで、後半は繊細なフットワークが求められる3段ほどのメンタルバトルであることが判明。そして日光がもろに当たるこのラインを完璧な状態でトライ出来るのは早朝(〜9時)か夕方(17時〜)、もしくはたまに訪れる曇り日に限られた。ただアプローチに45分かかり、早朝は十分にウォームアップする時間が取れず、夕方は影ってから日没までの僅かな時間しか取れないことから、ベストは曇り日を狙うことだった。またフリクション系の課題で、指皮のダメージがかなり酷く、1日トライしたら2〜3日レストを挟まなければならず、ツアー終了間近のこの曇り日はまさにラストチャンスと言える状況だったかもしれない。 この日は気温が低く、コンディションは最高で、1トライ目から4日間出来ていなかった前半パートを突破出来た。が、5mを超えた辺りでビビってしまい諦めのフォール。それから1時間ほど心を落ち着かせてからのセカンドトライ。このトライは全てのムーブが完璧に決まった。ただ目の前にある1手1手に集中しすぎて気付けばリップを掴んでた。高さの恐怖はもはや全く感じなかったけど、もし最後のリップ取りでミスってたら本当にやばかった。登れて良かったけど、それ以上に落ちなくて良かった。 何日もビッグハイクをこなして協力してくれたツアーメンバーに感謝です🙏 Photo @naoki__shimatani @rokdo_team"4,717 likes, 59 comments - ryu____1 on July 25, 2023: "Livin' Large(V16/8C+)✅ Mega psyched! I've done the main goal of this tour! This line, which i..."
Interestingly it was originally graded 8C by Nalle. Webb also gave it 8C. Raboutou however graded it 8C+ and Murai seems to agree with it given his IG post.
https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/murai