Can I hang kitchen cabinet on my subconstruction I built?
Can I hang kitchen cabinet on my subconstruction I built?
Hey!
Currently doing drywall myself and I am using 6x6 cm squared timber around my outside walls.
The problem is they aren't as stable as the other walls inside the house because of the 6x6 cm squared timbers that are about 30cm distance from each other.
I will screw my plasterboards on the squared timber and only one plasterboard, not two.
I have two pictures of what my construction looks like from far and one from close.
Maybe someone can give me advice before I install the plasterboard onto it.
The only problem I currently see is finding the subconstruction once I put the plasterboards back on. But other than that, if I find them can I install the cabinets safely?
In this thread: OP scaring the Americans because they think what they see in OP's pictures is the extent of the wall.
If fact, OP is just building out from an existing wall that is behind the OSB in his pictures.
Grogon, ask a local carpenter. I don't think Americans understand your German construction.
Sarry buddy but yor camment ain't upda code. Gatta rip it out n stard agin
I'll answer this one in German since this is my time to shine. Let me just say, the wall is perfectly fine, what we see is just another layer of OSB board for ease of installation on top of the actual wall behind it (which is well framed and insulated).
Dies ist ein sehr unterhaltsamer thread fuer mich, da ich beide Seiten verstehen kann.
Auf der Webseite von Wolf Haus ist die Installationsebene aus OSB zu sehen, die angegebene Punktlast ist 70kg pro Schraube. Wenn du sicherstellst, das deine Schrauben durch die Kanthoelzer in die OSB-Platte gehen, solltest du dich auf diese Angaben verlassen koennen, also eine Schraube haelt dann 70kg.
Deutschland hat selbstverstaendlich auch eine Norm fuer Kuechenmoebel, DIN 68930. Da bekommst du ein Gefuehl dafuer, wie schwer Kuechenschraenke werden koennen. Die Nachbarn in der Schweiz verwenden die Norm SN EN 14749, zum Vergleich. Es ist nicht ungewoehnlich, einen Schrank (wall cabinet) mit 120kg Belastung zu testen.
Beachte bitte auch die Distanz der Schrauben, man darf nicht zu nah oder zu weit setzen. Ich habe das hier auf Deutsch gefunden:
https://www.huettemann.de/lagerkatalog/download/osb4_belastung.pdf
Ich wuerde immer mit einem margin zur Sicherheit rechnen, vielleicht 20%. Eine Schraube haelt dann also 0.8x70kg = 56kg. Wenn du die Distanzen beachtest und dir das Gewicht deines Schrankes ausrechnest und auf entsprechend viele Schrauben verteilst, solltest du safe sein.
Ich gehe natuerlich davon aus, das die Installationsebene von Wolf Haus fachgerecht konstruiert wurde.
Super danke !!! : )
Noch etwas: die beste Methode ist wirklich, sich mit Bleistift vor der Montage der Gipskartonplatten die Lage der Hoelzer zu markieren.
Falls du das an einer Stelle vergessen hast, kannst du spaeter immer noch einen stud finder verwenden. Ich kenne die amerikanischen brands, habe aber mittlerweile auch solche Geraete gebraucht und getestet.
Der gruene stud finder von Bosch ist trash, aber der GSM120 aus der professional Reihe funktioniert gut:
https://www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/gms-120-0601081000
Findet auch elektrische Leitung und Rohre
Aw come on! I want to learn! I just don't want to learn German first.
Edit: D'oh! I had missed the context. All good.
Yeah, but they made the thread and mentioned not speaking English well enough and they were really getting confused and anxious by a bunch of us claiming the only way to turn this situation around is to demolish the building - at that point, some helpful reassurance was in order.
The gist of what I said was: the wall is fine, the manufacturer assures a point load of 70kg for the installation layer (so basically 70kg per screw), looking at some local regulations will give you an idea of how heavy a kitchen wall cabinet can get (going at it from this angle is helpful in case you need to discuss liabilities at some point), distribute that load over screws mounted at proper distances, add a safety margin and you should be good.
There's about one person in this thread that knows what is going on. Ignore pretty much everyone else.
As is tradition
Here is a picture of the wall how it looked when the house got delivered
We use three horizontal strips of thin flat stock metal attached to the studs with truss head screws before sheetrock to provide solid blocking at top and bottom of upper cabinets and also at top of base cabinets. The stock can be 20 or 22 ga. And 6" wide. You still may want to catch studs as best you can. I posted a picture showing the two strips that hold the upper cabinets. I'm not sure what the metric equivalent to gauge would be but you guys probably have something similar.
How are you getting any insulation in a wall that thin?
Insulation is already behind the squared timber.
The wall is actually behind the frame I am putting on the wall. It is an installation level for electricity and I can hang my plasterboards on that.
The insulation is 240mm thick behind the Plywood. That is where the vapor barrier is and the other plywood.
https://www.wolf-haus.de/ihr-mehrwert/mehr-holz/
If you scroll down:
The wall is complete. I am doing step 5 (6x6 cm timber) and tthe plasterboard. Behind the timber that I am putting on the wall is about 33 cm thick
I would not. 6cm is about 2 1/2 inches and I would not rely on a wall framed any less thick than 4-by (3.5 inches). Thinner means more flexion which will lead to problems of your plaster cracking and cabinet flushness issues. In terms of strength, it's probably okay, assuming you have fastened that framing solidly.
The trick to finding your studs is to pre-mark your plaster board and keep transferring those marks outward up to the point of hanging your cabinets.
Hi thanks!
Can I just install more 6x6 cm frames and make it more stable in the area I want to hang something or would that not help?
In general, I can hang plasterboard on 6x6 though right?
Are you getting this work inspected by anyone?
That work, while precise, would not meet code where I live.
Yes.
I have two specialists for wood houses coming.
The wall behind the 6x6cm timber that I put on is about 40cm thick. I am basically just adding 6x6cm timber for installation (electricity mainly) and to hang my plasterboards. The windows are sitting on a very thick wood inside the main wall behind the 6x6 cm installation floor
My advice? Knock that "wall" down and pay a proper carpenter to build a proper one. Your studs are too small, they don't go all the way down, you have no room for insulation, and if you try to hang cabinets on that thing, you're going to kill someone when the whole sumbitch collapses.My bad, I didn't know what I was looking at. See OP's diagram to learn more about this, and ignore my ignorance.
I cant knock that wall down. Its like 40 cm thick.
https://www.wolf-haus.de/ihr-mehrwert/mehr-holz/
Maybe if you see this you can help me :(
So I am attaching 6x6 cm squared timber onto an existing wall that is 40 cm thick
That link is extremely helpful. It seems like you're fine to attach cabinets to the wall after drywall. The osb is tied into some serious wood framing behind it, and as long as you're using fasteners that reach into the osb, it should be about as solid as you could want.
The kitchen metal grumpydaddy suggested isn't expressly needed here, but that's the most I'd consider doing to it.
Oh, I see. My apologies, I misunderstood what we were looking at. I thought the framing we see was the entire wall, but it's just non-structural framing on the interior behind the plasterboard to allow space for wiring.
I am not familiar with this style of construction, so I won't guess at best practices for hanging cabinets on it. But I would imagine that as long as the wall we see is sufficiently secured to the structural wall behind it, you should be able to hang cabinets. To be safe, you could anchor into the wall, but I don't know enough to say how to do that without interfering with insulation or vapor barriers.
It's just a subwall that's adding a thermal break. Presumably it's anchored to the existing wall.
Please have a look at the images he posted, the wall is absolutely fine. The images he posted are just the inner installation layer, the structural wall and insulation are behind that.
